Straighten the Grain, Please

I have a pet peeve. I may have mentioned this before, but I'm going to mention it again. Most high end stores do not do this (thank you from the bottom of my heart!), but JoAnn Fabrics, (and many others) do this one thing that really gets me- they measure every inch so carefully along the fold or the selvage to make sure you won't get even one 1/2 inch more than what you (supposedly) paid for, but yet they don't start and end with an ON grain cut. Without this, you do not actually get the yardage that you've paid for, and if it shrinks at all with the pre-wash, you have lost even more of your purchase. In short, we the consumers are getting gypped.

My gripe isn't with the sales person (who likely doesn't sew) and is simply following the bosses instruction. I would like to see that any and all stores that sell fabric, and are pinching the fabric pennies, permanently change their procedure to include either tearing the fabric at both ends (where possible) or by taking the time to pulling a cross thread. This would also save me a step in the preparation process.

Once a (washable) piece of fabric gets home, it goes straight into the wash. I could minimize some fraying if I serged the cut ends, but I don't see the point to it because I have to cut the ends off anyway.

My fancy diagram is meant to show that whether measured from the selvage or the fold, it cannot come out quite right. When a fabric isn't cut on grain, the waste is also significant. Why straighten the grain? Because the fabric can't be folded together properly, and the paper pattern won't be laid perfectly on grain if I don't have a straight edge to start with, both length and width. To do this, I align the selvage and cross grain perpendicular to each other along a gridded cutting board before layout. This step is especially critical with slinky or silky slippery fabrics.

To find the cross grain, cut into the selvage about 1/2". If the fabric is a natural fiber (and sometimes a weak polyester can be torn), the yardage can be torn at this point.  If not, find a thread to pull. Pull that thread all the way across, carefully cutting with scissors along line left behind.Yes, the thread will likely break, but grab another next to it and keep going.

As I follow the actual thread, you can see how it's getting much wider. How much fabric do you think I will lose once I get to the other side?

What started out to be a 1" trim turned into 4". That's nearly an 1/8th of a yard!

So what can we do about this?

• Right away, ask the attendant to cut or tear your yardage before and after with the cross grain. (I've noticed that my JoAnn store has begun to ask if you'd like your fabric torn, but only after they've measured it).
• Don't chat with your cutter, and do count with them. I have never come up with too much over, but have been shorted many times, even up to a yard of fabric.
• If you end up short, even after washing, call the store. As long as you don't cut into your fabric, JoAnn will exchange or accept returns for yardage with a receipt.
• If your store cuts fabric with the grain already, PLEASE thank them for their care and concern, not just because it's good for their bottom line, but because you also get full use of the fabric you've paid for.

Together we can make a difference!

The Fast Fabric Interface

A few weeks ago we made up the Tia Dress in the black and white cotton fabric you see below. There are quite a few pieces that need to be interfaced. To speed this process up, here is what we do: 

Step 1: With the fusible side up, lay your pattern pieces wrong side down on top of interfacing. Be sure the grain of your fabric runs with the interfacing length of goods.

 

 Step 2: With a large piece of paper, cover the top completely. We used 2 opened paper sacks, but any paper large enough will work, just be sure that any print/inks do not transfer with heat or steam.

Step 3: With an iron, press each area to adhere the paper to the interfacing.

Step 4: Turn the paper over.

Step 5: Place a damp cloth over the first piece and press again from the backside, following the manufacturer's directions for length of time and iron temperature.

Step 6: Re-wet the cloth and press each additional pattern piece as needed.

Step 7: Cut each piece along the original cut line.

Step 8: Separate the paper from the fabric. You are now ready to sew!

Sew Vintage!

My husband was feeling very generous and just randomly stopped at an estate sale by the side of the road on Saturday. I take no joy in the fact that someone has died to make this sale possible, but I reverence the chance to get an insiders look at their life through the things that they have left behind, and of course I'm tickled to gather a few "special" finds. Though there was no sewing machine this time, in the corner were 3 ziplock bags filled with various assortments of notions and trimmings. I didn't even bother to sort through them first. For less than $10, here is some of what I found in those bags:

Let me show you some of this in detail:

 I thought it interesting that they advertise this elastic as "shrink resistant." Did elastic shrink too?

And it has a zig zag line to follow for stitching.

 Take a look at the quality of this tiny grosgrain ribbon!

I'm very excited about the various feet and guides in that metal box. They are for a short shank machine, so I think they will work with my old Morse.

 I've not seen a gizmo like this before. It's for mending a hem (the drapes maybe?) or for adding a row of thread guides like a tailor tack. The clear ruler has holes to punch through so your marks are even, but it looks like a lot of trouble to go through. The directions also tell you to punch through a blanket or cork board (which would make it even more difficult to do!) and then you cut the thread between the layers of fabric leaving a thread line. For sewing it might be fine, but I don't think it's a great invention as a thread guide.

This little tool was the invention behind the self threader on our modern sewing machine. Now I can thread all my machines without specticals! The original cost: .25 cents. This was a big splurge!

This sewing machine "attachment" with a copyright of 1946 is similar to, and used just like our modern day darning foot for free motion sewing. Remember that home sewing machines did not offer the "zig zag" or "swing needle" option, so this attachment was recommended for  everything a zig zag could do: mending, applique, buttons, hooks and eyes, snaps, quilting, overcast, darning, buttonholes, and even zippers- in case you don't have the foot.

The kits is almost complete with 2 attachments, a rubber band, and a small embroidery hoop (one side of the hoop is missing) for darning socks, but they recommend a regular size hoop for making buttonholes. They give us a size guide, but let me tell you, it will take some practice to use this tool for making buttonholes! In case the task of maneuvering that needle produces frustration, they've provided a sheet of short testimonials to remind the customer that others can do this:

"I am so happy about my buttonhole maker and sock darner. It certainly saves time and energy. all my neighbors envy me, so I know you will be getting orders from them soon. Frieda Brum, 7838 W. 43rd St. Lyons, ILL."

Don't you wish you had one too??

Come see Me: Rocky Mountain Sew Expo

It must be true that one thing leads to another, and that's how I got mixed in with the Rocky Mountain Sew Expo (at this late date) coming up July 11-13 in Denver, CO. I am actually quite excited to visit the Capital city of Colorado, whose state motto is "Nil Sine Numine" - interpreted as "Nothing without the Deity".  What a lovely motto compared to Oregon's:  "She Flies With Her Own Wings."  It goes quite nicely with my own simple, yet non-Latin motto: "Keep on Sewing"...and  I plan to help you do just that while I'm there at the Denver Merchandise Mart (with free parking!) The Expo officially runs Thursday through Saturday, but I get to share with you two of my favorite topics in a special pre-expo class on Wednesday afternoon and another class on Saturday morning. (Don't miss the special offer at the bottom!)

I don't care what your figure, there is nothing more beautiful than a well fitting bodice- and if it has that lovely vintage look, then it's a truly winning combo!


The Vintage Bodice  $46 - #WW-8
Wednesday July 10 1:30-5:30
Skill Level: Some sewing Experience

Do you wish you could cut a pattern from a newspaper just like grandma did?  Using the same methods, we will cut, sew and then perfect the fit of a basic 1950’s bodice using a printed (or self-drafted pattern).

Learn how to adapt this pattern to copy the vintage looks you love! Using ½ size practice patterns, we will also make collars, facings, linings, yokes and more. Kit includes the basic full size pattern, 1/2 size pattern, and pattern  paper to be used in class, and directions for drafting sleeves, a gathered and circle skirt so you can finish off your dress in style!
Kit fee $25 paid to the teacher in the classroom
Please wear a quality bra and light t-shirt/tank top for fittings!
Bring to class:

• Sewing machine in good working order
• 1 ½ yards of quality muslin fabric
• fabric marking pencil
• seam ripper
• tracing wheel
• dressmakers carbon
• highlighter
• paper scissors, fabric scissors
• straight pins
• measuring tape
• scotch tape (magic tape is best)
• clear C-thru ruler, with grid (like a quilting ruler)
• thread
• mechanical pencil

I LOVE fashion and sewing history. In class I will tell you why. You might be surprised at what you will learn!

 A Pattern for History  $8 #SS-60
Saturday July 13 9-10am

Are you in love with vintage patterns and want to learn more about them? Do you know why most patterns are not printed?

Learn something about the culture they were made for and what you can expect from these flea market finds by general era from the 1920’s to 1980’s and discover how they differ from modern patterns in terms of fit, sizing, technique, and pattern information.

Q & A at the end.

Order classes here: 
http://rockymountainsewexpo.com/easy-order.htm

I want to see some vintage going on in Colorado!

Special Offer: Come to the show wearing something you have made from one of my patterns. Visit me in booth #422 and get 30% off one pattern of your choice.

Learn more about the show: http://rockymountainsewexpo.com/

Mini-Lesson in Matching Plaids

Lat month I joined the IPCA (Independent Pattern Company Alliance). I had planned to tell you about that experience this week, but like a bad journalist I haven't done my homework and interviewed everyone, so you'll have to wait a bit for that post. This week we are making Beatrice with a large scale plaid, so I thought I'd share with you on that topic instead.

If you remember back to my post about the new spring styles, (http://www.sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2013/03/spring-styles-unveiled-at-expo.html) you'll recall that Tia was made from my aunts stash fabric. This plaid came from the same place. She was going to make it into a jacket, but I just couldn't see it that way myself. There was just enough fabric for Beatrice  I'll do another post about this dress and the fewchanges that I made, but first let's tackle the job of matching the plaids. I'm going to do this with the back pleat only, but the concept is the same for every pattern piece.


The skirt on our dress has already been sewn together to make it easier to show you how this is to be done:

 

 Here is what the skirt looks like closed. You can see that I've centered the plaid at the center back so that the seam matches with the center of the design.
I need to cut all of my pattern pieces, carefully planning out the plaid placement. Once sewn this opening will become an inverted box pleat.







 If I were to just cut out without regard to the fabric design, this could be the result.

 First, I lay my pattern piece over the top of my skirt with the hem and seams matching. I tack the corners through my fabric and board to keep it from shifting. Using a ruler, I mark the center back and the the outer horizontal lines of my plaid on the pattern.

 I don't have much fabric left.









Oops. Centering the pattern both vertically and horizontally, I'll be missing a chunk.








I think I will move the pattern over, keeping the horizontal line centered, but put the vertical center on the red.

I'm going to slip my fabric under the opening to see if it will look alright. With the horizontal plaid lined up, it looks great.







  





My piece is cut out and ready to pin.

 I want to check that my plaid pattern matches at the seam allowance. Place pins directly to the right (or left) of each strip of color so that it doesn't shift while you sew.

My pleat is complete, and it looks great, don't you think?

Make a Wedding Dress for $100?

Making a wedding dress doesn't have to be this massive effort, nor does it have to be expensive. I did make a few minor changes to Fantasia (Sew Chic #9005) to make her into this bridal beauty, and with these few simple additions and substitutions, you can do the same! If you need to make pattern size adjustments, see my Pattern Resizing Tutorials, Part 1: Small to Large or Part 2: Large to Small and truly customize every inch of this once-in-a-lifetime dress!

The base fabric I used is a crisp nylon taffeta in a soft grayish mint color. The color is especially lovely under the white beaded lace with a bordered edge from JoAnn Fabrics (still available) from their Bridal Inspirations collection called "White Heather Bridal Mesh" for $24.95/yd. To get the yardage amount, I measured the pattern along all the edges I wanted trimmed with the lace border, and then divided that number in half  (because both edges of fabric have border).

The neckline front and back, the sleeve, and the hem are all trimmed with the border of this lace fabric. It was around 3.5 yards of fabric if I recall, so not too much.

You are thinking- but wait! the hem is curved, and that border is straight! I stayed with the curved hem with my base fabric but because lace doesn't fray and the grain is more forgiving, we are able to disregard all pattern grain lines and cut out the fabric in any way we need to. Here's how I do it:

Align the center of the curved edge of the pattern closest to the border, then extend the sides of the pattern to the end of the fabric. Just make sure your extension will be similar to the side it will sew to. You can see that this creates an angular hem once stitched together, which is beautiful, fast, and a carefree way to sew with straight edged lace. 

To trim the sleeve with lace, I substituted the normal cap sleeves with tulip sleeves, but instead of a curved edge, I gave it a straight edge.  Here's the link to my tulip sleeve tutorial http://www.sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2011/04/make-your-own-tulip-sleeve-tutorial.html 

Finish the sleeve edges and sew underarm of the base sleeve seam, then baste the lace over the top

Instead of the wide sash, we substituted a wide organza ribbon and simply hand sewed 3 beaded medallions to the front. This easy tie was in keeping with the delicate nature of the gown.

If you've never sewn with beaded lace, here's a few more tips that will help you:

• Once you've cut out your pattern, remove all the beads and sequins along the seam allowance. 
• Tack each bead strand to the mesh fabric and knot them individually or the beads will begin to fall off. 
• After cutting out, baste your lace to the base fabric on the bodice only. 
• Use a zipper foot to sew all seams.
• After sewing, trim the seam allowance to less than 1/4".
• I keep the two layers free at the sleeve and the skirt except for the front darts and at the zipper.
• I sewed a wide bias of self fabric to the hem. This acted much like horsehair braid, but cost less.
• Wear your dress with a petticoat if you want your skirt to be full at the bottom like ours is. 

 So what did I spend?

I found the taffeta (3.5 yards needed, but I bought a bit more) at Walmart in the $2 yard bin, which really helped to keep the cost down! (about $10)
The lace I bought with a 50% off coupon. ( about $45)
interfacing, zipper, spool of ribbon, thread (about $10)
Beaded medallions, also purchased on sale (about $15)
and the pattern ($18.95)
 TOTAL = $98.95


I bet you didn't know that a wedding dress could cost less that $100 and be so easy to make!

You can buy the Fantasia pattern at Sew Chic Patterns.com/Fantasia.html
 

Side Zipper Sewing Problems and Solutions

I wore Beatrice to church one Sunday and a friend of mine, noticing it was a new dress, inspected both front and back carefully and was very complimentary, saying it might even tempt her to try sewing again. Then after a moment of silence, she asked hesitantly "How do you get into it?"


Yes, a side zipper can easily go unnoticed (AND is easy to reach!), but I also love a side zipper because:

• Tucked neatly under the arm, a side zipper in an off color is less noticeable
• A 14" length (vs. 22" for a back zipper) is less expensive
• No dealing with neck edges and facings
• A lapped zipper is easier to sew 

However, a flawless installation does not happen automatically. There are several problems to watch for, and I'll go through them one by one:
 Problem A: The stitching is puckering up on one side and you have extra or not enough fabric on one side or the other.
What is happening: The front and back side seams openings are not the same length.

 How to check it: Match the front and back to each other the entire length. You can see that one side is much longer than the other. Now let's talk about problem B, which has the same solution.

Problem B: The waist seams don't match up.

What is happening: You may have the same length, front to back, but the top to bottom are offset just enough to keep the waist seams from matching correctly.

Solution to problem A and B: You need to find out which piece is too long/short. Is it the front or back/ bodice or skirt?

Pull out the paper pattern and match it up to both the skirt and the bodice, both front and back, to find out which one needs the correction. In this case, the bodice allowance isn't accurate. Start by ripping the seam out back to the point where the seam diverges from the pattern.

 Place a pin to mark the match point.

Pin everything back together and check it to make sure it still matches. Now sew.

Problem C: We've got both sides the same, but sewing the lapped side of the zipper with a perfectly matched waist seam is difficult!
What is happening: You've pinned  your lap to the zipper tape over and over again, but still the waist seams do not match up once sewn. Figuring out just where and how to perfectly match seam to seam on the zipper tape, along with the natural drag of the zipper foot can  easily put everything completely out of alignment.

Solution to Problem C:

Mark your waist seam line on the zipper tape with a pencil, chalk, or erasable marker. We have marked two lines because we need to center the piping.

Sew the seam allowance to the zipper tape to make sure everything stays in place.

Then check your work before topstitching.

Use a walking foot to top stitch, measuring an even distance from the fold. Make sure you've given enough clearance and that the stitching will be on the right side of the teeth. A walking foot picks itself up with every stitch, which means the fabric is feeding evenly the length of the zipper.

Problem D: No matter how hard you try, there is always a "bump" in the top stitching at the end because the zipper pull gets in the way.
What is happening: You can't figure out how anyone could have straight stitching at the end of a zipper! The pull is too large. The zipper foot can't get past it,  you have an unsightly zag in the stitching.

Solution to Problem D: 

 Stop your stitching BEFORE you get to the zipper pull. With the needle in the DOWN position, raise the foot and push the zipper pull well past the foot.

 Lower the foot.

 Finish sewing to the end, pivoting at the corner just past the top stop. Use this method of moving the pull any time it keeps you from sewing a straight seam.

We have one lovely side zipper we can be proud to wear! Don't you just love a dress that looks great both coming and going?