Tabletop ironing boards are inexpensive and readily available in almost every craft or home supply store. The covers, however, can be problematic because they are hard to find or expensive to replace. When looking to find or replace a cover that will fit your board, your options may come down to buying a new board or making due with a cover that is far too big! Luckily, resizing an inexpensive standard cover (ours cost $5.95!) is a quick and and simple process, and you'll finally be able to relieve your designated ironing towel of its unconventional duty.
YOU WILL NEED:
Ruler
A purchased ironing board cover
A cover-less tabletop ironing board
Pins
A match
6 large safety pins
A shoelace (or any small sturdy cord)
Start by placing your board on top of the wrong side of your cover, keep it centered and towards the tapered part of both pieces. Remove the stitching on the casing that holds the pull cord just along the bottom end of the cover about 2" into the end your board.
Measure and mark two inches off the bottom edge of your board. Cut on the line drawn, rounding the corners in to match the shape of your board corners. Mark a seam allowance, matching the seam of the rest of your casing (~1/2").
Take the casing with cord inside and pin over the edge of the fabric, making both halves of the casing visible from both sides. Pin from each undone edge of the casing and pinch the excess at the center. Pull the cord up close to your fabric, you do not want to cut this!
Cut the excess casing, leaving enough for the ends to overlap. Pin this closed.
Pull the plastic cord tight. Cut off excess and, using a lit match, melt the tips of your cord to prevent unraveling.
Sew the casing as pinned, sewing close to the casing edge over the drawn seamline, reinforcing where the stitching meets.
Pull tight and check tautness. Tie the cord and flip to the underside of the cover to get it out of the way and prevent snagging.
If your cover remains slightly too loose, use the safety pins and shoelace or cord to thread and lace reinforcements across the bottom. To do that, attach the safety pins along the underside leaving about 1/2" visible from the right side, three on each side and evenly spaced. The placement need not be precise. Cross thread the shoe lace through the pins and tie the two ends of the cord together.
And you're finished! Enjoy the use of your new and removable ironing board cover!
Here we are at WEEK 2 of the Pretty Petticoat Sew Along. How is your project going?
A lot has been said in the Facebook Group about the interfacing layout and WHY we must cut with the length of goods. Group member, Rebekah, has started her tutorial this week with a blunder in this direction and cautions you to not make the mistake she did. Let me give you a visual of the interfacing layout and all the reasons why you are instructed to do so:
Perhaps understanding the WHY will keep you from taking the same wrong turn.
A WORD OF CAUTION
I will now return to Rebekah's post for week 2, with a few edits from me for clarity:
Rebekah:
So this is where
I say DON’T DO WHAT I DID! Lol
The very first steps
in the instruction booklet specifically say:
So, I got ahead
of myself and decided to go against the grain… just DON’T! This
interfacing and most are only 20” wide, so not quite wide enough for the front
yoke to be placed crosswise on the on a lengthwise fold. I decided to avoid having to zig zag
two pieces together, so I turnedthe
pattern piece to the crosswise fold. As I sewed the yoke
together all seemed fine until… I had to baste the bottom of the yoke together.
The top layer or outer layer I didn’t interface. Just the inside layer (or my
facings).And since the yoke hem is on a
slight curve, it stretched a bit. Which means the 2 layers are uneven in
circumference around. It causes a fold … ick! ( below image of white yokeis from the very first attempt at this
petticoat last year and I got bummed and quit. Although now its been pulled out
and I’ll correct it). I refuse to waste fabric lol
REMEMBER:
place pattern pieces correctly on the grain and you will avoid such a
disappointment. I had a slight tuck on my black yoke which I was able to fix
easily enough. Not as severe as here on the white yoke.
Apply the Interfacing and Sew the Side Seams
Rebekah:
It’s hard to see
here, but I have placed some of my tracing paper down underneath my yoke pieces
and interfacings pieces. So as I press it won’t stick to my ironing board. It
peels away nicely and toss. No mess! Interfacing on top, facing down. No messy
iron either. After inter
facing, sew up you side seamsper
instructions. You will have two separate yokes.
Laura: Concerning the yokes, one will be your facing (to the inside, against the body) and the other will be to the outside. I recommend the yoke with the interfacing be the OUTSIDE, or fashion side. WHY? 1) Because it provides stability for your zipper and 2) because this is an undergarment, the interfacing provides a smooth surface for your clothing to move against.
Zipper Application
Rebekah:
Go ahead and baste shut the
center back seam on your yoke that is the fashion layer, not the interfaced
layer. And clip about every inch or so along the basting. It will help with
removing stitches once the zipper is in.
Laura:
So here is where Rebekah and I temporarily part ways. I do not recommend any kind of fusible, gummy strip, interfacing strip to hold or apply zippers. WHY?
Because they ARE sticky and add bulk, might be inappropriate for some fabrics and add expense. I worry about the risk. In the end, the adhesive doesn't do anything for me that a pin can't do so if you are okay with the old fashioned "pin the zipper tape to your seam allowance" method, this video will be of help to you. It's very long because I go through the whole process.
In the video I talk about zipper types and recommend against using an invisible zipper. The WHY behind this is that it's simply not sturdy enough to hold up
against the hard use this type of garment is sure to get.
Remember that centering the zipper teeth exactly over the seam allowance isn't critical. A mostly on center is good enough. If pins just don't do it for you, the tape is ready to serve. Rebekah does a wonderful job showing you how that is done.
Rebekah:
Here I’ve prepped for my zipper insertion with wonder tape ( it’s water
soluble & washes away). Just make sure it not too old or it may be past its
prime in quality.
Mark 5/8” down
from the top and make sure you place the zipper stop just beneath it. Peel off
the paper backing to expose the adhesive.
Placethe zipper face down on the adhesive, zipper
teeth centered right over the seam basted shut. Follow instructions for sewing
zipper down to just the seam allowance.
Once the zipper is in, I continued with
putting the yoke together. Don’t forget to trim your seams at the waist after
sewing the layers together, CLIP, its on a curve so it will help it to lay
flat. UNDERSTITCH the facing at the waist.
Laura:
Now you are ready to top stitch your zipper at center back. MARK the top stitching line from the seam on both sides before you stitch. Always stitch with the right side of the garment towards you. How can you see that the top stitching is straight if you aren't looking at it? Another good tip: I often use a walking foot to do my zipper top stitching, especially with long zippers, slippery or loosely woven, or stretchy (lycra) fabrics. This way, ALL layers can move forward in unison. Be sure to sew all the way to the top, moving your zipper pull out of the way.
Rebekah:
Here is my black
yoke,you can tell on the bottom right
where I had a tuck due to my incorrect interfacing direction. I fixed it as
well as I could without deconstructing the yoke too much. Also, this will be
inside the seam allowance after attaching the petticoat ruffles, so I didn’t
stress myself too much over it. If it was like the white yoke, then yes.
TIP: I serged with a single needle three thread
overlock stitch. But, be careful if you’ve chosen to use a 7” zipper. The zip
stop at the bottom will most likely be in the direct path of the needle on the
serger, so when you get to that part , slow down and hand walk your serger past
it so you don’t break a needle… ask me how I know! LolOR use a 9” zipper and then no zip stop to
worry about. Serging the edges cleans them up since they will be exposed after
petticoat is done. Or you can use a tight narrow zig zag If you don’t have a
serger, OR you can bind with bias binding! Which brings me to my next part.
Laura:
It's okay to shorten the Zipper above the stop before sewing.
Rebekah:
Have you
considered binding you hems? I adore the look of binding on the hem of a
petticoat. It gives a lovely finish in my opinion. But it will work just fine
without one also. So if price is a consideration, you can cut costs by not
bothering with binding. It can be a bit costly depending where you buy it.
I just happened
to have 2 yards of black cotton in my stash so I went to work making my own
bias binding. Not terribly hard, just an extra step and time , but since I had
it, I decided to make it!:) I saved myself $20-$40.
With the
settings I used on my pleater, I needed between 12-13 yrds of binding per
petticoat layer. So roughly 26 yrds give or take. I ended up with a lot more
from my 2 yards of black cotton fabric. A LOT more! So I have extra for another
project! Yay!
Also, binding
helps with the body and structure of your petticoat! BONUS!
If you want to
be real fancy, you can purchase or make satin/ acetate bias binding.
Etsy has it for
around $1.00/ yrd and higher.
Ebay,
amazon,( sources listed in materials
needed at beginning)
It comes in many
different widths. I would suggest ½” as opposed to ¼”. This comes after binding
my hems with the bias seam binding foot. The ½” allows a bit more of the fabric
to be grab in between the layers. Which keeps the binding from ripping off too
easily from the organza…. Ask me how I know! Again. Lol
And I suggest
double fold bias. It’s just easier to manage in my opinion. But use what you
are comfortable with.
