Custom Tabletop Ironing Board Cover Tutorial

Tabletop ironing boards are inexpensive and readily available in almost every craft or home supply store. The covers, however, can be problematic because they are hard to find or expensive to replace. When looking to find or replace a cover that will fit your board, your options may come down to buying a new board or making due with a cover that is far too big! Luckily, resizing an inexpensive standard cover (ours cost $5.95!) is a quick and and simple process, and you'll finally be able to relieve your designated ironing towel of its unconventional duty.

YOU WILL NEED:
      Ruler
      A purchased ironing board cover
      A cover-less tabletop ironing board
      Pins
      A match
      6 large safety pins
      A  shoelace (or any small sturdy cord)


Start by placing your board on top of the wrong side of your cover, keep it centered and towards the tapered part of both pieces. Remove the stitching on the casing that holds the pull cord just along the bottom end of the cover about 2" into the end your board.

Measure and mark two inches off the bottom edge of your board. Cut on the line drawn, rounding the corners in to match the shape of your board corners. Mark a seam allowance, matching the seam of the rest of your casing (~1/2").

 Take the casing with cord inside and pin over the edge of the fabric, making both halves of the casing visible from both sides. Pin from each undone edge of the casing and pinch the excess at the center. Pull the cord up close to your fabric, you do not want to cut this!

Cut the excess casing, leaving enough for the ends to overlap. Pin this closed.

 

Pull the plastic cord tight. Cut off excess and, using a lit match, melt the tips of your cord to prevent unraveling.

Sew the casing as pinned, sewing close to the casing edge over the drawn seamline, reinforcing where the stitching meets.

Pull tight and check tautness. Tie the cord and flip to the underside of the cover to get it out of the way and prevent snagging.

If your cover remains slightly too loose, use the safety pins and shoelace or cord to thread and lace reinforcements across the bottom. To do that, attach the safety pins along the underside leaving about 1/2" visible from the right side, three on each side and evenly spaced. The placement need not be precise. Cross thread the shoe lace through the pins and tie the two ends of the cord together.

And you're finished! Enjoy the use of your new and removable ironing board cover!

Tutorial: Easy Ginseng Sash Variation

Laura Nash wears Ginseng #LN1516

I like variations. I don' t know about you, but I'm not the type to buy 10 of the same T-shirt, or wear my clothes and matching accessories exactly the same way every time. Maybe that's because I can't remember how or with what I wore it! Even if I like the combination a whole lot, I still can't seem to remember. This can be a problem if I want to dress in a hurry....but on the bright side, I guess this means new ideas are always ready to spill out. So here is another spillage born out of my love for variation!






Those ties do elongate and make us look taller, but why not change it up and turn those long ties into a bow?

Here's how:


 





 Starting with the wider bottom sash, folding in thirds, fold under to meet the waist.

 Now fold the top sash in the same way.

Pinch together turning each section to opposite sides. The smaller sash moves up and outward and the larger tie turns down and toward dress center, giving it a diagonal angle. Adjust so your fingers straddle three sides with the gathering in the center.













Find your prettiest piece of jewelry with a pinning mechanism on the back and pin it all into place.

My pin does not hold all of the gathers, only bits here and there, enough to keep in tacked down and in place on the surface.

Sew Chic Ginseng #LN1516

Here I look as short as I really am (no illusions to help me!), but that's okay because I like the bow and a reason to wear sparkly jewelry is never a bad thing. I can do the elongation another day! What variations can you think of for those sashes? Share with me!

Buy the pattern here: ♥
http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/ginseng.html



Have a great sewing day!

Laura

Tutorial: Sew Chic Southern Bell Curved Hem Pattern Hack

Meet my Southern Belle, LN8503. As designed, the full skirt made up of panels we call gores, and godet inserts at the hem creates this lovely angled hem that can handle border prints and laces with a straight edge. (photo at right). In the photo at left is the same dress, but with a curved hem, appropriate for all other fabrics.

You might remember this plaid dress as one I wore for lesson 8 in my Craftsy class.  I have worn this dress for a very long time, and it is still one of my favorites.


This yellow and black chiffon variation was made for the ITE show in 2015 with border fabric from Triple Textile. Instead of putting the border print at the hem, I placed the border print at the top of the skirt and did a curved hem at the bottom. This polyester chiffon may well still available for $3.50/yd (wholesale prices) on their website here:

http://www.tripletextile.net/SpanPrints1217/N-205-W.html


Let me show you hot to put a curved hem on your dress. This customization is so easy to do.



You will need:

• pattern paper
• tape
• curved ruler
• tape measure
• marker or pen

We will be 1) eliminating the godet and 2) straightening and lengthening the side seams of the skirt (there's just one panel, so this is easy), and 3) reshaping the bottom of the skirt panel to give it a curve.

Before you start, measure yourself from waist to hem and know how long you want your skirt to be. If you need to adjust the length of your skirt, do that now using the "lengthen or shorten" line on the pattern and following the "what to know before you sew" section of the instruction booklet. When planning your skirt length, consider the length of your petticoat if you'll be wearing one, and don't forget to include a 1-2" hem allowance, as appropriate for your fabric, and the 5/8" seam allowance at the top. I am using 29" as my measuring length. Subtracting 1 1/2" for the hem on my skirt and 5/8" seam at the top, my finished skirt will be 26 7/8" long, perfect for a 26" long, or shorter, petticoat.

1. Start by adding pattern paper from the hem up to the angled mid section. Tape it in place.















2. Using a ruler, extend the side seam for your size. Use a yard stick to make sure that angle is straight from the waist down to the new end point. Measuring from the cut line for your size, make a mark the length you've determined for your skirt.

3. Then go to the center and again, from the cutting line for your size,  measure to the desired length and mark the bottom of the skirt panel. 

 

4. Continue measuring and marking, inching your way toward the side seam you've marked previously, creating dashes all the way across.Keep your measuring tape or ruler straight down from the waist, no angling.

5. Now comes the fun part! Using your curved ruler draw a new hemline by connecting the dashes from side seam to center. 

 6. Here is what your piece should look like.

7. Fold your pattern in half lengthwise and copy your marks to make the right side the same as the left.

Cut from fabric, this panel shouldn't stretch too much, but to be sure your skirt looks right, always mark your hem from the floor while you are wearing it, then hem it. You want your hem to be parallel to the floor.

What do you think of the results?  I'd love to see how it turned out for you!

Purchase Southern Belle LN#8503.

Have a great sewing day! 

Laura

Learn to Sew: Cutting Line accuracy

I've worked with many a beginning seamstress. Some are naturally meticulous (and can go overboard, even for me!) and others are...well, a bit sloppy. Not because they want to be, but because they don't know. When I start a project, 75% of the time goes to the prep work - pressing the fabric and pattern, checking and correcting any problems with the grain, meticulously arranging a double layer of fabric so that both layers are on grain and perfectly straight, and then carefully measuring each piece in the layout. With all this care that goes into the prep for layout, it makes sense that just as much care would go into the cutting. In terms of fit, assembly, garment hang/quality, and cost - cutting is the most important task there is, and in the industry, the cutters job is given only to the highly qualified.

Here is the pattern piece we will be working with. I use a mechanical pencil when creating my patterns so that the line is as thin and precise as it can be. I cut on the outside of this line leaving no paper margin, but yet the pencil line remains.The goal is to create an exact fabric replica of the paper.

In this photo example above, I cut the top and a beginning seamstress cut out the bottom. Do you need to ask yourself which side best matches the shape of the pattern? Just in case...

Both top and bottom should look like this example with smooth edges and crisp sharp corners.
Beginners should:

• Use a sufficient amount of pins to keep all layers firmly together. 
• Aim carefully using long strokes with sharp scissors. use short strokes for curves.
• Don't lift your fabric up- keep it level with the table as much as possible
• Cut in the same "groove" as the cut before it.
• Ideally, move your body, not the fabric to get a better cutting angle. 
• If you must move the fabric, cut around the pinned pattern piece leaving a fabric margin, then turn the piece to cut the margin away. 

Why is this important? Because our seam line is determined by the cutting line. If we take care at this stage in the game, everything else is smooth sailing.

Want to get away from meticulous cutting? Mark all of your SEAM LINES with dressmakers carbon. Then your cutting line can be as sloppy as you please and no one will ever know!

Now that you are no longer a beginner, you may want to get adventurous and explore some of my other tutorials. If you have a pattern that just doesn't quite fit, try Pattern Sizing Tutorial Part 1: Small to Large or Pattern Sizing Tutorial Part 2: Large to Small

Happy Sewing!

How to Shorten a Bodice Pattern

 Get out your ruler and a good sharp pen, pencil, or marker.

Draw two parallel lines, the distance apart being the same distance you would like to shorten the bodice by. Make sure your new lines will be perpendicular to the grain line. In this case, that is center back. How much to shorten? Subtract your actual back waist measurement by the back waist measurement listed on the pattern for the size you are making. If your back waist measures 16" and the pattern is made for 17", then make your parallel lines 1" apart.

Create a fold along the bottom line be folding the pattern under, just temporarily.

 Now unfold and bring that bottom line up to match the top line, creasing the pattern for an exact match.

Pin or tape in place. Notice that the side seam and dart lines now have a jog in them. Those need to be corrected. Place a ruler along this line, matching each end of the ruler with the end points of that line. Draw a NEW cut/sew line. This new line should run between the jags. This is called TRUE, or truing the line. Now alter the front pattern pieces in the same way, shortening in the same location as  the back.

Side Zipper Sewing Problems and Solutions

I wore Beatrice to church one Sunday and a friend of mine, noticing it was a new dress, inspected both front and back carefully and was very complimentary, saying it might even tempt her to try sewing again. Then after a moment of silence, she asked hesitantly "How do you get into it?"


Yes, a side zipper can easily go unnoticed (AND is easy to reach!), but I also love a side zipper because:

• Tucked neatly under the arm, a side zipper in an off color is less noticeable
• A 14" length (vs. 22" for a back zipper) is less expensive
• No dealing with neck edges and facings
• A lapped zipper is easier to sew 

However, a flawless installation does not happen automatically. There are several problems to watch for, and I'll go through them one by one:
 Problem A: The stitching is puckering up on one side and you have extra or not enough fabric on one side or the other.
What is happening: The front and back side seams openings are not the same length.

 How to check it: Match the front and back to each other the entire length. You can see that one side is much longer than the other. Now let's talk about problem B, which has the same solution.

Problem B: The waist seams don't match up.

What is happening: You may have the same length, front to back, but the top to bottom are offset just enough to keep the waist seams from matching correctly.

Solution to problem A and B: You need to find out which piece is too long/short. Is it the front or back/ bodice or skirt?

Pull out the paper pattern and match it up to both the skirt and the bodice, both front and back, to find out which one needs the correction. In this case, the bodice allowance isn't accurate. Start by ripping the seam out back to the point where the seam diverges from the pattern.

 Place a pin to mark the match point.

Pin everything back together and check it to make sure it still matches. Now sew.

Problem C: We've got both sides the same, but sewing the lapped side of the zipper with a perfectly matched waist seam is difficult!
What is happening: You've pinned  your lap to the zipper tape over and over again, but still the waist seams do not match up once sewn. Figuring out just where and how to perfectly match seam to seam on the zipper tape, along with the natural drag of the zipper foot can  easily put everything completely out of alignment.

Solution to Problem C:

Mark your waist seam line on the zipper tape with a pencil, chalk, or erasable marker. We have marked two lines because we need to center the piping.

Sew the seam allowance to the zipper tape to make sure everything stays in place.

Then check your work before topstitching.

Use a walking foot to top stitch, measuring an even distance from the fold. Make sure you've given enough clearance and that the stitching will be on the right side of the teeth. A walking foot picks itself up with every stitch, which means the fabric is feeding evenly the length of the zipper.

Problem D: No matter how hard you try, there is always a "bump" in the top stitching at the end because the zipper pull gets in the way.
What is happening: You can't figure out how anyone could have straight stitching at the end of a zipper! The pull is too large. The zipper foot can't get past it,  you have an unsightly zag in the stitching.

Solution to Problem D: 

 Stop your stitching BEFORE you get to the zipper pull. With the needle in the DOWN position, raise the foot and push the zipper pull well past the foot.

 Lower the foot.

 Finish sewing to the end, pivoting at the corner just past the top stop. Use this method of moving the pull any time it keeps you from sewing a straight seam.

We have one lovely side zipper we can be proud to wear! Don't you just love a dress that looks great both coming and going?

Copy your Figure: A Dressform Tutorial part 1

This post is a follow up to my January post about various commercial dress forms and DIY methods sewists use to try to get a decent dress form. Though it's been a while, I didn't forget my promise to write a tutorial to make THE BEST mannequin that really does duplicate your figure. In my defense, I just finished mine in September, (though I admit I've been using it anyway, pins and all) so thank you for your patience. To keep this tutorial from growing into an unmanageable mess, I'm going to break it down into smaller parts.

Part 1: prepare the cover

Part 2: fitting and perfecting the pattern

Part 3: padding the mannequin (and all the finish up work!)

The key to success is in the accurate making and fitting of a french lining or Moulage, which is a sloper, master pattern, or fitting shell  that has all of the wearing ease removed. Because this lining will become the cover of your mannequin, from here on out, I'm going to just call it a cover. 

Supplies you will need:



~ A fitting shell pattern of your choice
~ Quality 100% cotton muslin yardage- the best you can afford. DO NOT PRESHRINK! 2 yards will be plenty.
~ A sturdy mannequin- smaller than your own figure measurements
~ measuring tape
~ clean spray bottle
~ 100% cotton batting
~ various rulers both curved and grid- C-thru
~ soutache braid
~ thread
~ pencil
~ scissors
~ disappearing fabric marker
~ dressmakers carbon- I prefer the waxed type
~ tracing wheel
~ dressmakers pins
~ hand sewing needles
~ sewing machine
~ Paper for copying your pattern- Use tracing paper on a roll, usually 12-24" wide found in the art section of your craft store(If you need wider paper, tape two sections together with transparent tape). While you could skip over the copying of your pattern, remember that a final pattern of your cover will come in handy if you ever need to make a new cover for your mannequin without going through the fitting process again.

Step One: Prepare the Pattern

1. Start with a Master Pattern that you like
The only pattern pieces you will be needing are the bodice and the skirt, both front and back. Be aware that I am not endorsing ANY of these patterns. I list them only as possible sources.
Comercial Pattern Sources:
Butterick 6092
Vogue 1004
Specialty Sources:  
http://pattern.stringcodes.com/main_basic.html
http://www.surefitdesigns.com/

From BurdaStyle:
Free Download:
http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/basic-sloper-patterns-priceless
OR http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/basic-one-piece-dress-sloper (It can be both an advantage and disadvantage to be without the waist seam- I prefer to have a waist seam to fit to).
Draft Your Own:
http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/constructing-the-basic-bodice-block

http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/drafting-the-basic-skirt
.
2. From Bodice with darts to Bodice with princess seams: FRONT.
If you are using a princess seam pattern then skip this section on dart mannipulation. It's also important to mention that you should ALWAYS use a ruler to trace. If you do this freehand, your work will not be so accurate.

If your pattern does not have a seam line marked, use a ruler to mark this line on your pattern. Carefully trace off your pattern pieces, tracing only along the seam line.  This is the important line to know, and at this point, we don't care where the cut line is. If your bodice has two darts, manipulate the side dart to the shoulder to make it a princess seam.

Here is a good video on You Tube that shows how to do that:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwTv7bBN7XE .

Use a ruler to connect the two darts from the shoulder to the waist. My pattern has only one dart at the waist, so I used a curved ruler to mark an attractive princess line to the shoulder.

Now we need to actually divide the bodice into two pieces by tracing off the two sides:  Start at the neckline, down the center front, squaring off at the waist, up the inside leg of the waist dart to the shoulder, across the shoulder and neck to the center front.  Add a grain line parallel to center front, label your pattern and add a notch or two if you desire. Do the same to the side front, carefully tracing around the outside leg (farthest from center front) of the darts, shoulder, waist and side seam. Add notches (if any) in identical locations to match up with front pattern, grain line parallel to center front and label. Now add a 1" seam allowance around both pattern pieces, transferring the notches to the cut line.

3. From Bodice with darts to Bodice with princess seams: BACK
On the back bodice, draw a slightly curved line from the shoulder dart to the waist dart. This line will be come your princess seam line. Copy off the Center Back and Side Back pattern pieces the same as the front, adding a grain line parallel to the center back, labeling, notches if desired, and 1" seam allowances.

4. Give your skirt pattern princess seams too!
Measuring from the waistline down center front and back, perpendicular to the grain line, shorten the skirt pieces to about 16-17". Be sure to "walk" the pattern side seams to make sure the front and back are shortened the same amount.

Draw a line from the inside dart tip to the hem. Make this line perpendicular to the center front and back. This is your princess seam sewing line. If your pattern has a second dart, you can leave it as is, allowing one more fitting element, or combine it by transfering that dart space to the dart closest to the center front. Trace off your skirt pattern pieces as before, adding  a 1" seam allowance and  labeling them skirt front, skirt side front, skirt back, and skirt side back.

Step Two: Layout , Cut, and Sew

1. Layout
Lay out your pattern as you normally would with the pattern grain line parallel to the selvage. Cut 2 of each pattern piece.  I pin on the inside of my seam line rather than on the edges, and because I want my seams to be ultra-accurate, I use dressmakers carbon and a tracing wheel to mark the seam line.

2. Pin along seam lines. Sew it up with a basting stitch. Press lightly or not at all. 
Carefully match the seam lines using a pin in the mark on both front and back to hold the seam together. 

The sewing order:

First, sew the bodice and skirt together matching bodice front to skirt front, bodice side front to skirt side front and so forth, sewing at the waistline.

Second, sew the princess seams, matching fronts to side fronts and backs to side backs, matching any notches and waist seams.


Third, sew shoulders and center front. I left my side seams open because that is where the much of the fitting adjustments will be needed, and the back so that the model can get it on.

Here is my pre-padding mannequin wearing the cover I just made with the side seams pinned together. The cover still has the wearing ease, but you can see that the mannequin is smaller, especially in the hip area. The princess lines are also in the right location, centering over the shoulder and bust points.

On to part 2: Fitting the cover to a live person and perfecting the pattern.