Pattern Resizing Tutorial Part 1: Small to Large

Hi Everyone, this tutorial has long been requested and is LONG overdue. I thank you for your patience! Resizing a pattern from the size you have to the size you want isn't really as scary as it looks. Whether larger or smaller, the concept is the same, but to keep this manageable,  I'm going to do this in two parts. My example this time will show you how to enlarge the size, and with part two, I will show you how to shrink it down.

Make your pattern smaller than the size you have with this tutorial Part II:
http://sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2015/05/pattern-resizing-part-2-larger-to.html

We will be using the Beatrice Pattern, #LN1310 to guide us through this instruction:

Buy your pattern here: https://sewchicpatterns.com/product/beatrice/
 

To follow along with this tutorial you will need

• Your chosen pattern.
• Any pattern paper of your choice.
• A long see-thru ruler with a grid
• A curved ruler is nice, but optional
• Your personal measurements

 

1. Measure and Math

 Have your measurements handy, grab the chart above, and let's do some math.

 I'm using some measurements from an imaginary person that wants to make up one of my patterns, but the chart range doesn't quite reach far enough. Put your measurements in that first column, and the chart measurements in the second column. Subtract one from the other, and put that number in the third column. This is the overall increase, but we need to disperse this measurement evenly on all 4 sides, (a front, a back, a right and a left side), so divide that overall number by 4 and put that in the last column. This is how much we will add to the side seam front and back.

You may ask- what if my pattern is a princess seam and there are 6 ways to disperse that measurement? The answer is yes, you can, and in some cases, should divide it by as many vertical seams as your pattern has, but this number may not be divided 6 ways equally. Plan it out so that the princess line will land just to the outside of the bust point, and put the rest at the side seam.

2. Tape paper to the pattern

 For this example, I'm going to use the Beatrice pattern, #LN1313. Cut out the pattern pieces that you will need for your project. Because we are going to grow our pattern, tape some kind of pattern paper to the edges.

 3. Draw an extension line

Use a ruler to draw a grading point through the corner points of every edge. I'm going to call this an extension line. Notice that the regular changes in size not only include more width, but also include more height to make the change proportionate. You may or may not want to add more height to your pattern, but using this method, it's certainly an option.

 4. Start at the side seam

First we will concern ourselves with the width changes. Using my imaginary friends measurements, I need to add a total of 3" to the bust, and divided by 4, the change will be 3/4" from the size 18. At the waist, I need to add 1/2". Using a ruler, I've made a mark along the extension line.

5. Work your way around the pattern

Working my way around the pattern piece, trace off the armscye, or armhole. You can also free-hand the armhole shape, but tracing is convenient.

6. Option 1: Leave the shoulder height as is

 According to my persons measurements, I don't need to "grow" the pattern and add more height, but I am going to add more width across the chest. Before you decide to do the same, take an arm measurement at the bicep and decide if you can stay with the size 18 sleeve as I will be doing, or if you will need to enlarge the sleeve proportionally as well. Will you need more room in the armhole for comfort? If so, then you should extend the shoulder height in sequence with the rest. We must shorten the pattern to match our body length later anyway, so adding height here is not going to cause you more work in the end. In this photo, I have squared off the pattern at the shoulder, and am not adding height as the grade would normally require.

7. Matching my armscye corner to the corner of my shoulder, I can pivot the paper in or out just a little to match up with my side seam and add a tiny bit more, or less, fabric to the width across the chest. It does not match up perfectly, but is very close.

7a. Option 2: Add height at the shoulder

If you are extending the shoulder height by 1/4"- this is what your pattern should look like. I've added an extension line at the notch to make sure that matches up with the previous grade.

 

7b. Match the armhole tracing to the upper corner as mentioned before, with the notch also following in line with the others. The armhole will extend at the underarm to match the new size you will make for the sleeve. Measuring this addition reveals just about 3/8" will be added to each side of your sleeve. You will also need to raise the cap 1/4" to match the bodice.

7c. Extending the shoulder means extending the neckline too. Use the graded points to raise and redraw the front neckline. 

 8. Lengthen or Shorten

Now we need to think about shortening this bodice to match our figure. There are two places to shorten: above and below the bust point. This pattern has a little symbol above the cut out dart. The is NOT a bust point. It's the end point of your dart. However, the bust point isn't far from there- and the bigger a dart is, the nearer to the bust point your dart should end. I drew an arbitrary double line above and below the bust point because I figure our friend should be wearing a good quality bra that will keep those girls up high. Measuring from the waist, vertically up to the bust point you can determine if and how much should shorten below and anything left over should be shortened from above. We need to shorten 1" total, so I'm taking 3/4" from below and 1/4" from above. If you have added height to the pattern at the shoulder, don't forget to factor that into your back waist measurement.  Fold one line up to match the other, and tape it to secure.

9. Move the Dart

Do you need to move the dart? Measure yourself from bust point to point. Divide that measurement in half. Measure from the waist up to your bust point. Measuring the pattern over and down to the waist, find your bust point. Transfer that information to the pattern and mark your bust point.  Use a ruler to draw a new line the corrected distance from the dart marked on the pattern. This is a cut line, not a sewing line.

10. True (straighten) the side seams from end point to point

The dashed line outside the dart represents the sewing line. The newer pattern release has notches along this cut out dart, which this one does not have. True your side seams, mark the waist line and this front pattern is ready to go.

11. Complete other pattern peices

Continue on with the other pattern pieces, moving the darts and adding to the side seams consistently as before until all pattern changes have been made, including facings. Keep a notebook or use a diagram to help you keep track, but always walk your pattern to be sure you haven't forgotten anything. Make a check mark on each seam that has been walked to partner so you don't have to worry. Checking this now will save your time, money and hassle down the road. If your chosen pattern has more pieces to it, such as the Tia dress, remember that the concept is the exactly the same. Make your marks at the side seam to personalize, and resize the pattern using the same grading lines, tapering as was done on the sizes before. Keep measurement changes the same throughout so that all the pieces will sew correctly to each other, walk your seams and that's all you need to resize your pattern from what you have to what you need! Stay tuned for part two where I show you how to reduce the size of a pattern.

Have a great sewing day!

~ Laura

Pattern Tutorial: Ehlen Blouse Variation

 

Trying to match a brown and gold polka-dot shantung silk pant, I found a gold lining in my stash that was the perfect color. While a blouse could be made exclusively from lining, in my opinion it looks a little cheap. This fabric is very light weight, and exceptionally shiny, so to tone down the shine and give the look an upgrade, I decided to pair it with chiffon in a champagne color. The result was a really pretty dull/shine iridescence. 

To pull out this contrast even more, I bound the neck and sleeve peek-a-boo edges in bias strips made from the lining and also added in a sash that is sewn into the side seams. This soft and sweet blouse turned out to be super quick to make, and in fact, I sewed it together in one day.

This tie can be worn both wrapped and tied in the front, or to the back. I love this look with jeans; a sassy bow and long ties floating behind....

First things first, get your pattern here:
http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/ehlen.html

Then, to prep for this project, you’ll need an additional ½ yard of lining fabric for the binding and ties. Follow the same number to cut except for the sleeve band you'll need to cut 2 of chiffon, and 4 of lining, both front and back. You will also need to rearrange your lining layout to accommodate space for the bias strips. You'll need 2 strips cut on the bias about 1 ½” wide and about 30” long, or enough to go around the front and back neck edge. One will be for the neck and the other will be used for the sleeves. Don't cut anything to size until after it's sewn. The first ¼ yard of lining will be used for the ties. Cut 2 strips 8” wide the full length of the cross grain. 

Once the chiffon and lining are cut, layer the sheer over lining and pin all the way around, with pins no less than 2” apart. Baste around all pieces ½” from the raw edge. Prepare the binding by folding in half, raw edges together, press.  Because the binding will finish the edges, and the lining will be used as one with the sheer, be sure to include a seam finish as you sew each seam. With the exception of the sleeve band, no lining is used on the inside. We want to put this together fast!

The bodice will need to be sewn together in a little different order than your booklet outlines. Here is how I did it:

 Sew the bodice back darts, and front to side front, then sew the front to back at the shoulders.

 

Sew a stay stitch around the neck edge at 5/8”. Trim to  slightly less than 3/8”. I did this to keep the seam allowance/binding edge manageable, and make sure that my stitching won’t show once the neck is complete.

With wrong sides and raw edges together, pin binding to neck the first few inches just to hold it in place. With the binding towards you under the machine, sew a roughly 3/8” seam. Now I say roughly because my eye stays on the folded edge of the binding (and the distance from the presser foot) at all times. I want that binding edge to be an exact measurement all the way around the neck. In this case, the seam allowance is not my biggest concern.

 Sew again, about 1/16” inside the seam allowance. This is an extra precaution against raveling.

Trim the seam to 1/8” from that second stitching and clip the curves as usual.

      Press the binding and seam up, then press the binding down to the right side of the blouse, folding down right on that seam.

    Top stitch on the right side close to that fold. Scant is the word we use to describe this distance- which means it’s so close you can’t really measure it!

    Sew the center front seam from that symbol all the way up the front. If you’ve measured that binding distance correctly, those binding edges will match right up.Now finish the front and back with the midriff and peplum.

I made my ties using a typical vintage fold up method, but for this light weight fabric, I think it weighs the ends too much. I recommend that you cut the ends on the bias and then clean finish all three edges, which is to turn under 5/8" and then again 1/4" to the inside of allowance. Stitch close to that second fold.

Make sure your ties are finished so that they mirror each other.It's easy to mix up which is the right/left/wrong right side of the fabric.

     Sew two rows of basting stitches at 5/8” and 3/8” along the remaining short end.

  Pull bobbin threads to gather to half the width, about 3-4”.

With right sides together, pin tie to bodice front at side seams above waistline seam.

 Baste to the side seam. Now you are ready to install the zipper.

    The sleeve won’t be lined either. We’ll finish the edges with binding instead.

            

 

       As before, stay stitch, add binding to the front and back where the angular peek-a-boo  opening of the sleeve will be. Press to the front and top stitch. Now sew the sleeve front to sleeve back as usual.

Sew the sleeve band as guided by the booklet. I make a template from scrap paper, then use chalk or disappearing marker to create a sewing line to help me get a nice curve around that corner.

I finished my hem with a clean finish as well. It's quick and neat, and won't get in the way of the zipper. Let me know if you make this blouse! I would love to see your creations!

♥Laura

HOW TO: Sewing for Competition

I thought it a good time to follow up my sewing for competition series with a final post about how to prepare for, and plan a project that will be judged. I began my career in design by sewing for competition, and having also helped judge, I can speak from experience on both sides of the table.

It can be really fun and rewarding to sew for completion, and there bounteous prizes out there ready for the taking, but you should plan your project thoughtfully in order to bring home the booty. Here some of the things to consider:

Meet and Exceed the Requirements

When learning about a competition, the first thing we do is assess the rules, requirements and deadlines. Very quickly we must decide if we can meet the deadline, have the tools or materials, the means, and ability to meet the minimum requirements. The competition rules will ask us to DO something such as use a certain fabric, theme, or pattern, but this is only the minimum requirement.  Meeting the rule minimums will very often get you in the door, but if winning is the goal, then you must employ every way you can think of to go beyond this mark. Don't just meet the requirements- exceed them. 

I was not particularly competitive when I began sewing for competition, as I was just excited to be accepted and to see my designs on professional models and on the runway. I learned a lot by watching others, reviewing what they were doing, seeing the winning designs and trying to better myself. It wasn't too long before I decided I was in it to win it!

Originality Counts 

You are in this to impress someone! I believe we call it the WOW factor. Get ideas from where ever you can, but in this realm, originality counts. If we've seen it too many times, or it looks like something everyone else is doing then you might want to experiment a bit more. Everyone loves a new idea, new technique, or an unfamiliar silhouette. Take the time to come up with an unusual twist like using an old idea in a new way.  Sewing for competition is a license to be clever!

This bias dress was designed specifically for an ITAA competition, draping to fit the body in geometric shapes I used insets and godets throughout, and large swaths of cloth, piecing where ever necessary. The beaded accents have a purpose, as the sleeves are filled with layers of net, all held in place with beads to help keep its shape.

Keep the Judges, Competition, and Audience in Mind

In choosing your project, think about who the people or group or audience is that will be judging your garment. What might be the goal of the competition, or the sponsors? What can you make that will best represent this sponsor in meeting their purpose? Are they selling a product? Are they interested in unique or technical design? Are they looking to encourage the young, mature, or art and design oriented? Will your garment be judged by many or a few people? Take all of these things into consideration and try to get inside the mind of your audience.

One competition required that I submit photos of three different designs to show my capability. Once accepted, I could model only ONE of the submitted designs. I sent a survey to all my friends and family, then made arrangements with a model to wear the gown with the most votes. I had this feeling that my judges/audience would be a sophisticated group, and that this dress my friends had picked would be the wrong one to show. At the last minute I changed my plan and showed a cocktail style instead. Taking home the title that day helped me know that being mindful of the audience is key.

Provide a Top Notch Presentation

Most rules will ask for a minimum of one or two photos as an initial round of judging. Provide your judges with the best possible photos to avoid being eliminated in this earliest phase!  If not specifically prohibited, ALWAYS provide a minimum of three photos- front, back, and a detail. Provide others only if it's relevant and necessary to show the fabric, design, or quality of workmanship. Don't overwhelm judges either. Some competitions will require professional photography, and serious competitors will definitely be paying for photos. If this is your first time, be aware that not all photographers know how to shoot clothing appropriately. Ask around for referrals, and ask the photographer for a quick practice run. If photographing DIY, always shoot in natural, but not direct light, high resolution without a flash. Give your garment a back drop using a bed sheet in gray if you have it- cream (white is usually too harsh- avoid it if you can) or some other complimentary (to the garment) pale color can work also. Thumb tack it to the side of your house to block out distracting lines and scenery. One back drop color from top to bottom, and under the garment is great. A hanger is not the best presentation. Put your garment on a dress form or on a body to show the shape. Cropping outlying areas and heads are just fine.  If your photos are in focus and high quality, three will be enough to convince the judges that your garment is worthy of a second look!

Showing your workmanship with a plain background in a beautiful and artful way will definitely catch the eye of your judges.

Give it your Best Workmanship

Now that you've planned your project in a purposeful way; it's designed to meet the needs of your competition sponsors, and you've reeled them in with the best photos possible, this is where the rubber hits the pavement. IF this is a photos only competition, then workmanship isn't going to be the biggest factor because no one can see your workmanship. If this is a garment-in-hand competition, your workmanship should be as flawless as you can get it. No raw edges. No sloppy hand stitching. No shortcuts. Add in linings, structure, seam finishes, and high quality garment details to give your garment that something special. Keep in mind your skill level when choosing an embellishment. Hand painting with dye is going to win over stencil and paint, and embroidery is generally the better option compared to fabric markers, but I can make no rules here. I have seen some marvelous things happen with nothing but a sharpie!  Suffice it to say that if your workmanship is beyond average, it will set your garment at least equal to, if not above, anyone else in the competition. It's the workmanship that will ultimately get you across the finish line.

Does this mean that you must sew couture or give up? No. BUT if your competitors are sewing couture, and you did not....well, I think you get the picture.

What are you making for competition? Send us links!

Don't get Nostalgic yet...Here's a Pattern Giveaway

Yesterday the Nostalgic website went to the webworld trash barrel.

The last bit of business to finish up is to find a home for the last few patterns with the Nostalgic name, and I've decided to do a pattern giveaway. I have 5 sets of the Myrtlewood pattern left, as shown to the right.

All you have to do to enter is become a facebook fan or a blog follower through Google Friend Connect. The contest ends at midnight, January 1, 2010.

From this list, five lucky winners will get this pattern completely free. I'll pay shipping, even internationally. I'll notify you of your winnings and need to ask you for an address of course. You could have a new dress for the new year!

Burdastyle

Have you found out about Burdastyle yet? So many American sewists have complained about Burda patterns because they weren't in inches and at one point in time didn't add seam allowances for you (I'm told that now they do). I can see how some might not want to try it, because I also avoided those patterns in my younger years. But now, I'm okay with it, in fact I see the wisdom in it. Metric IS easier, and changing design lines or seam lines, and measuring the pattern for fit are so much easier when you don't have a seam allowance to contend with. And European style is so much more interesting to me now. Since I don't sew much but my own patterns these days, I can't really comment on Burda patterns themselves, but I do like their pattern styles, and they have a great website: http://www.burdastyle.com/




It's like one big sewing party where everyone is invited to comment, add their own patterns (many are free), write sewing tutorials, or have a discussion about anything at all. Of course, use good judgement when gleaning information because not all is worth your trouble, but I've found some good instructions on constructing your own basic block pattern, and I link to it from my website on the tips and techniques page. All in all, Burda has done a great great job with their website giving creative people a place to get together and share. I'd be willing to bet their patterns are of the same quality.

Pattern Close Out Sale

The first thing to do once the decision is made to start a business is to think of a name. Right? Well, I brainstormed and asked my family for suggestions of course. I love vintage, so Nostalgic seemed like a good choice, but apparently I was wrong. After about a year of heavy use, it was clear to me that the name was just not going to work out. No one understood the word, or seemed to know how to spell it. For others, it had a negative vibe to it, even if vintage style has become popular.

Now the problem is, I have a few patterns printed that have the Nostalgic logo on them that I need to get rid of. My solution is to sell them at 40% off, which is only $6. There are only a few left, and time is limited. Everyone has until December 8, 2009, at which time the site will go offline and I'll say goodbye to Nostalgic forever.

Please, give these orphan patterns a good home!
http://www.NostalgicPatterns.com