Vintage Techniques: Smocking for Skirts

My mother loves smocking, and has made several dresses using this technique over the years. We most often see this traditional and labor intensive technique on pillows, yokes, and peasant blouses. While there are many many ways to do smocking, I have never really cared for the look of it until I saw it used on these really cute vintage skirts:

So I took a look at one of my old sewing books to see if there was a quick way to get the job done by machine, and sure enough, there are several methods to get the look of smocking without ever touching a needle to hand. I gave this one a try and and it was pretty and easy to do:

1. To make a skirt using this smocking method, cut a rectangle of fabric about 1-1/2 to 2 times the width of your hip measurement and the length of your desired skirt plus additional for a hem and waist seam allowance. 
2. Sew the first row of stitches 5/8 from the raw edge and another row 1/8" from the first. Continue sewing double rows of stitches 1/8" apart, with a 1/2" between each set for as long as you car to, but not past the hip. I used a standard stitch of 12 stitches per inch, but loosened the top tension so that the bobbin threads would be easier to pull. On a longer length, or depending on your machine, you may need to use a longer stitch, so test the stitch length for yourself. 
3. Starting at the hipline, pull both threads together from each group individually, gathering evenly, and shaping each row to match your figure. Generally speaking, each succeeding row will be more tightly gathered. Do leave at least a bit of ease (1 1/2" minimum) at the hip graduating to none at the waist. 
4. Using contrast threads and a double needle, I set my machine to do a zig zag stitch just wide enough to span the 1/8" area. Continue to sew between each 1/8" double row.
5. Sew up the back seam, add a zipper and a waist band and a hem, and you are ready to go!

I'd like to make one up, but there is no time. Let me know if you make one for yourself because I would like to enjoy  it vicariously through you.  For now, my hipless half size mannequin wears this one well :)

The Morse Sewing Machine, a question of popularity?

Today while I was updating my "about me" section, it made me think about the relatively unknown Morse brand sewing machine. Who has ever heard of Morse? Who hasn't heard the name of Singer? I found this great ad  for the Morse machine from 1963:

As a way of rating popularity, I looked up the words "Morse Sewing Machine" in the google key word tool. There were only 2900 monthly searches as compared to 368,000 searches for "Singer Sewing Machine".  Though it's not a true comparison of popularity- modern sewing machines still use the name of Singer, and Morse is no more- it saddens me to see such a fine machine lost in obscurity.

I wonder about the history. How did this happen? Did they advertise to the right crowd? Was the machine too expensive? Made in Japan- were people hanging on to WWII prejudice? Was the quality in question? Was it bought out by some larger company and then shut down? In those days, purchases were not made lightly, and products were meant to last. The Morse company went to the bother of qualifying for a Good Housekeeping seal of approval which meant something to the housewife. What more could someone do to get noticed by the public?

My mother bought this now unknown used machine for something like $35 around 35 years ago (As compared to a new $800 machine I bought that lasted for only 8 years!). She bought a New Home sometime after, but hung on to the old Mr. Morse intending to give it to my little sister who is now a beginning sewist. My sister took it for a short while, but wanted a modern machine with all the standard stitches. It took me a while but I convinced mom to let me have it, and I love it. It will sew any kind of fabric from fine to thick with perfect tension and feed. The machine sews quickly (which I need!), has no problems with winding a bobbin or using different kinds of thread. Though it won't do an automatic button hole, I'm not bothered by that because I learned long ago how to set my zig zag length and width to make a button hole manually.  If this were my only machine, I admit that I would miss having a blind hem stitch, but 99% of my sewing is with a straight stitch anyway. This machine gets much use.

My mom came over not too long ago and again mentioned giving the Morse machine to my sister. Sorry mom, but she had her chance. Mr. Morse doesn't want to sit under her table waiting and waiting for a little love while my sister stitches away on her modern plastic model. Mr. Morse and I have a love affair with each other, and he belongs to me.

Thank you Ron Anderson of  A1 Sewing Machine Specialists at www.a1sewingmachine.com
for providing a copy of this letter found inside of a manual telling us more about the origination of the Morse Sewing Machine:

Sorry folks! I can't help you find parts, nor do I own a manual. Good luck with your search!

Pattern Close Out Sale

The first thing to do once the decision is made to start a business is to think of a name. Right? Well, I brainstormed and asked my family for suggestions of course. I love vintage, so Nostalgic seemed like a good choice, but apparently I was wrong. After about a year of heavy use, it was clear to me that the name was just not going to work out. No one understood the word, or seemed to know how to spell it. For others, it had a negative vibe to it, even if vintage style has become popular.

Now the problem is, I have a few patterns printed that have the Nostalgic logo on them that I need to get rid of. My solution is to sell them at 40% off, which is only $6. There are only a few left, and time is limited. Everyone has until December 8, 2009, at which time the site will go offline and I'll say goodbye to Nostalgic forever.

Please, give these orphan patterns a good home!
http://www.NostalgicPatterns.com

Photo's in the 40's style

I've had this dress designed for a while now. I had it published, packaged, and ready for market, but it wasn't selling very well. Every time I wear mine, people compliment me, so I really thought it would do okay on the market. My sister came to visit early this month, so I had her model this dress for me, thinking if I could get some better pictures that might do the trick. They turned out fabulous, in my opinion. Now I'll see if others think so too.