Pattern Resizing Part 2 - Large to Small

If you've read or followed my Pattern Resizing Tutorial - Small to large, (which shows you how to make your pattern bigger) this will be simple. We will be doing the same thing, but in reverse! This tutorial will teach you how to make your pattern SMALLER that the sizes marked on your pattern. If you mean to make your pattern LARGER,  then click here to go to the tutorial part 1 for that instruction: 
http://www.sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2015/04/pattern-resizing-tutorial-small-to-large.html

If this is your first attempt to resize, don't worry! Using my Southern Belle pattern, #LN8503 (buy the pattern here: http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/southern_belle.html) you can follow along with me and before long you will have a perfectly-sized piece.

Here is what you will need:

• Your chosen pattern.
• Any pattern paper of your choice (or use the paper cut from the edges of your pattern sheet).
• A long see-thru ruler with a grid
• A curved ruler is nice, but optional
• Your personal measurements 

 1. Measure and Math
 Use this chart to record your measurements and then we'll do some math.
 

Most of my patterns range from a size 2 to 18, and as an early design the Southern Belle only reaches to size 6- not small enough for my imaginary figure!  Let's fix that. Put your measurements in the first column, and the smallest pattern measurements from the pattern in the second column. Subtract the small from the large, and put that number in the third column. This is the overall decrease, but we need to disperse this measurement evenly on all 4 sides (divided between our front, back, right and left side). Now divide that overall number by 4 and put that in the last column. This smaller number is how much we will subtract from each of the side seams, front and back. Check your math!
The changes in the pattern chart sizes include both width and height to make the sizes proportionate. Keep this in mind as you make your reductions. Maybe you need to reduce the width, but keep or even add some length (see Small to Large tutorial). No problem. This is why you've taken your measurements. 

Exceptions to this divide by 4 math rule:  -- i.e. a princess seam. However this number may not be divided 6 ways equally.  Plan it out so that the princess line will land just to the outside of the bust point, and put the rest at the side seam.)


2. Draw extension lines
For this example, I'm using the Southern Belle #LN8503, pieces 1 (bodice front) and piece 2 (midriff yoke). Cut out the pattern pieces that you will need for your project. Because we are going to reduce our pattern we will be drawing some new lines on the pattern pieces -- extension lines. Even though we are reducing, you may still need some extra pattern paper for changes.

  Use a ruler to draw a grading point through the inside corner points of every edge. There will be exceptions where you draw outside of the pattern. This allows us to follow the pattern shape while at the same time shrinking it down.

For the moment, ignore the vertical side seam line we've drawn in. What I want you to notice is the grading line at the outside waist from the 18 to the 6, that it's outside the pattern piece. Tape paper here if you need to. See how the outside edge of the pattern drops at the waist for all sizes? We want to maintaining this shape for our size too. We will be also be redrawing this line, but to match our measurement.

3. Start at the side seam

First we will concern ourselves with the width changes. Using the reduced measurements from my chart, I need to subtract a total of 3" from the waist, and divided by 4, the change will be -3/4" from the size 6 mark on the piece. Using a ruler I drew a line 3/4" in from the size 6 mark, then matched it up with the waistline.

4. Work your way around the pattern

Working your way around the pattern piece, measure and mark your new lines, keeping in mind which reduction goes where!

 

We've used a ruler to mark 1/2" all the way around this pattern piece, matching the reduction for our bust, changing direction at the grading points.

At the curves, keep the transition from wide to narrow the same as the other sizes are. Use a curved ruler, trace (the neckline above onto a piece of paper then with that tracing underneath, redraw it in the correct position, or neatly free-hand that line.

On this pattern, although my waist needs to be reduced by a total of 3", the bust only needs to be reduced by only 2". This means we are going to have to correct that transition between pattern pieces with different width adjustments (narrow waist, wider hips for example). For now, draw the new new measurement lines for each piece and we'll tackle this step a little later in this tutorial.

5. Lengthen or Shorten

Looking at my imaginary person's measurements, we see that although the bust and waist need to be reduced, her back waist measurement needs to be lengthened. There are two places to lengthen: above and below the bust point. If you need to lengthen the bodice area, you'll need to take into consideration any darts and your bust point. With our pattern we will make the adjustment on piece 2.

Rule of thumb for lengthening is to cut the pattern piece perpendicular to the center front or back. We did this and then placing it over our pattern paper spaced it apart the extra 1/2" (use a ruler to mark!) our lady needs and taped it down.

This pattern doesn't have a dart, but if yours does, you may need to move it. Measure yourself from bust point to point. Divide that measurement in half. Measure from the waist up to your bust point. Measuring the pattern over and down to the waist, find your bust point. Transfer that information to the pattern and mark your bust point.  Use a ruler to draw a new line the corrected distance from the dart marked on the pattern. This is a cut line, not a sewing line. The bigger a dart is, the nearer to the bust point your dart should end. Assuming a good quality bra that keeps you nice and high, draw an arbitrary double line above and below the bust point. Measuring from the waist, vertically up to the bust point you can determine if and how much should be lengthened below and anything left over should be lengthened above.

If you need to shorten your pattern, I will refer you to this tutorial on Shortening a pattern:
http://sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2014/10/how-to-shorten-sewing-pattern.html

6. Matching the pattern piece seams

This is where we make the newly marked pieces match! Remember how our lady's waist and chest have different reductions? Well, those pieces have now been altered accordingly and won't match up -- until we work our magic.

In our example we need to align the bodice front (reduced 1/2") with the midriff yoke (reduced 3/4"). 

Mark your seam line at the bottom of the bodice and the top of the midriff and overlap them, one on top of the other, with the size 6 cut line touching. My red pencil is pointing to that overlap/match point.

I've pinned my pattern so that it won't shift.

I've made an X at the bottom and top of the side seam. These two points I will match up with my ruler, drawing a line between them. This is called truing. This will be my new cut line.

This side seam is not straight, so I am using a curved ruler to guide me from that bottom X to the top X. Use a tracing wheel to mark this new cutting line on the paper below. The tracing wheel punches tiny holes into the paper so you can see it. Mark over that line with your writing implement.

 8. Complete other pattern pieces

Continue on with the other pattern pieces, customizing the darts, subtracting from the side seams and redrawing the pattern shape as before until all pattern changes have been made. Don't forget the facings. Keep a notebook or use a diagram to help you keep track, but always walk (match your pattern pieces at the sewing lines) your pattern to be sure you haven't forgotten anything. Make a check mark on each seam that has been walked to partner so you don't have to worry. Checking this now will save your time, money and hassle down the road. If your chosen pattern has more pieces to it, such as the Tia dress, remember that the concept is the exactly the same. Make your marks at the side seam to personalize, and resize the pattern using the same grading lines, tapering as was done on the sizes before. Keep measurement changes the same throughout so that all the pieces will sew correctly to each other, walk your seams, and that's all you need to resize your pattern from what you have to what you need!

Have a great sewing day!

~ Laura

Pattern Resizing Tutorial Part 1: Small to Large

Hi Everyone, this tutorial has long been requested and is LONG overdue. I thank you for your patience! Resizing a pattern from the size you have to the size you want isn't really as scary as it looks. Whether larger or smaller, the concept is the same, but to keep this manageable,  I'm going to do this in two parts. My example this time will show you how to enlarge the size, and with part two, I will show you how to shrink it down.

Make your pattern smaller than the size you have with this tutorial Part II:
http://sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2015/05/pattern-resizing-part-2-larger-to.html

We will be using the Beatrice Pattern, #LN1310 to guide us through this instruction:

Buy your pattern here: http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/beatrice.html

To follow along with this tutorial you will need

• Your chosen pattern.
• Any pattern paper of your choice.
• A long see-thru ruler with a grid
• A curved ruler is nice, but optional
• Your personal measurements

 

1. Measure and Math

 Have your measurements handy, grab the chart above, and let's do some math.

 I'm using some measurements from an imaginary person that wants to make up one of my patterns, but the chart range doesn't quite reach far enough. Put your measurements in that first column, and the chart measurements in the second column. Subtract one from the other, and put that number in the third column. This is the overall increase, but we need to disperse this measurement evenly on all 4 sides, (a front, a back, a right and a left side), so divide that overall number by 4 and put that in the last column. This is how much we will add to the side seam front and back.

You may ask- what if my pattern is a princess seam and there are 6 ways to disperse that measurement? The answer is yes, you can, and in some cases, should divide it by as many vertical seams as your pattern has, but this number may not be divided 6 ways equally. Plan it out so that the princess line will land just to the outside of the bust point, and put the rest at the side seam.

2. Tape paper to the pattern

 For this example, I'm going to use the Beatrice pattern, #LN1313. Cut out the pattern pieces that you will need for your project. Because we are going to grow our pattern, tape some kind of pattern paper to the edges.

 3. Draw an extension line

Use a ruler to draw a grading point through the corner points of every edge. I'm going to call this an extension line. Notice that the regular changes in size not only include more width, but also include more height to make the change proportionate. You may or may not want to add more height to your pattern, but using this method, it's certainly an option.

 4. Start at the side seam

First we will concern ourselves with the width changes. Using my imaginary friends measurements, I need to add a total of 3" to the bust, and divided by 4, the change will be 3/4" from the size 18. At the waist, I need to add 1/2". Using a ruler, I've made a mark along the extension line.

5. Work your way around the pattern

Working my way around the pattern piece, trace off the armscye, or armhole. You can also free-hand the armhole shape, but tracing is convenient.

6. Option 1: Leave the shoulder height as is

 According to my persons measurements, I don't need to "grow" the pattern and add more height, but I am going to add more width across the chest. Before you decide to do the same, take an arm measurement at the bicep and decide if you can stay with the size 18 sleeve as I will be doing, or if you will need to enlarge the sleeve proportionally as well. Will you need more room in the armhole for comfort? If so, then you should extend the shoulder height in sequence with the rest. We must shorten the pattern to match our body length later anyway, so adding height here is not going to cause you more work in the end. In this photo, I have squared off the pattern at the shoulder, and am not adding height as the grade would normally require.

7. Matching my armscye corner to the corner of my shoulder, I can pivot the paper in or out just a little to match up with my side seam and add a tiny bit more, or less, fabric to the width across the chest. It does not match up perfectly, but is very close.

7a. Option 2: Add height at the shoulder

If you are extending the shoulder height by 1/4"- this is what your pattern should look like. I've added an extension line at the notch to make sure that matches up with the previous grade.

 

7b. Match the armhole tracing to the upper corner as mentioned before, with the notch also following in line with the others. The armhole will extend at the underarm to match the new size you will make for the sleeve. Measuring this addition reveals just about 3/8" will be added to each side of your sleeve. You will also need to raise the cap 1/4" to match the bodice.

7c. Extending the shoulder means extending the neckline too. Use the graded points to raise and redraw the front neckline. 

 8. Lengthen or Shorten

Now we need to think about shortening this bodice to match our figure. There are two places to shorten: above and below the bust point. This pattern has a little symbol above the cut out dart. The is NOT a bust point. It's the end point of your dart. However, the bust point isn't far from there- and the bigger a dart is, the nearer to the bust point your dart should end. I drew an arbitrary double line above and below the bust point because I figure our friend should be wearing a good quality bra that will keep those girls up high. Measuring from the waist, vertically up to the bust point you can determine if and how much should shorten below and anything left over should be shortened from above. We need to shorten 1" total, so I'm taking 3/4" from below and 1/4" from above. If you have added height to the pattern at the shoulder, don't forget to factor that into your back waist measurement.  Fold one line up to match the other, and tape it to secure.

9. Move the Dart

Do you need to move the dart? Measure yourself from bust point to point. Divide that measurement in half. Measure from the waist up to your bust point. Measuring the pattern over and down to the waist, find your bust point. Transfer that information to the pattern and mark your bust point.  Use a ruler to draw a new line the corrected distance from the dart marked on the pattern. This is a cut line, not a sewing line.

10. True (straighten) the side seams from end point to point

The dashed line outside the dart represents the sewing line. The newer pattern release has notches along this cut out dart, which this one does not have. True your side seams, mark the waist line and this front pattern is ready to go.

11. Complete other pattern peices

Continue on with the other pattern pieces, moving the darts and adding to the side seams consistently as before until all pattern changes have been made, including facings. Keep a notebook or use a diagram to help you keep track, but always walk your pattern to be sure you haven't forgotten anything. Make a check mark on each seam that has been walked to partner so you don't have to worry. Checking this now will save your time, money and hassle down the road. If your chosen pattern has more pieces to it, such as the Tia dress, remember that the concept is the exactly the same. Make your marks at the side seam to personalize, and resize the pattern using the same grading lines, tapering as was done on the sizes before. Keep measurement changes the same throughout so that all the pieces will sew correctly to each other, walk your seams and that's all you need to resize your pattern from what you have to what you need! Stay tuned for part two where I show you how to reduce the size of a pattern.

Have a great sewing day!

~ Laura

Hatmakers school: How to resize a hat pattern

Sew Chic Pattern #101 Cloche Hat

I love hats. One day I hope to get into this craft a little bit deeper, but for now, I must be satisfied with my one cloche hat pattern, developed as the third in my learn to sew teaching pattern series. Why a hat? Because no fitting is involved. Well, no fitting if you are an average 21" head, that is. So when one size does not fit all, the question is how to alter a hat pattern to fit?

When it comes to hat fit, a little bit of ease is okay, giving your head some room to breathe, but no more than 1/2" or the fit will be sloppy. Also keep in mind that the fabric you use- thin vs thick- will make a difference in the overall fit too.

For this hat, altering at the center back seam, adding or subtracting from the circumference at the bottom and tapering to nothing at the top works great. Make sure you split the difference (need to add 1" becomes 1/2" increase) and add to both ends of a cut one pattern. The brim and lining must also be altered to match. The brim is shown, but the lining pattern would be altered in the same way. Do not change the crown lining piece.

Use this same method for any hat that is shaped like a bowl. Because this hat ends at the top of the head, we don't want to alter there, only at the bottom of the cap where the circumference affects the fit. If you were working with a different hat style, say a pill box type, this alteration method would not be the best choice.

If the person you are fitting has an overall larger or smaller head, a quicker way to alter the pattern to fit is with a photocopier. This is technically against copyright law, but you have permission (with my hat pattern) to do this as long as it's for personal use only. Divide your pattern up into smaller than paper size chunks, adding cross marks at what will be your page intersections to help you match it up and tape it back together correctly. Be sure to label each section too.

 Enlarging by 2% will provide a 23" circumference, and enlarging 5% will give you 23 1/2" and increase the overall span (over the head from ear to ear) by 1/2". A reduction by the same percentage will produce similar smaller results.

Happy Hat Making!

Courage to go on...

I can't seem to get my last style, which I call Fantasia, off the draft table. I wanted to get it published in time for Christmas- even just before Christmas would have been okay. When I sent it to the grader several months ago, it came back with a lot of errors. The grader fixed them, but when making the last sample ( I make the pattern up again and again to make sure it's right), the pattern just didn't fit right and I couldn't figure out why. After checking it once more, I discovered that the seam allowance was omitted from the back shoulder. Any error, and that's never the end of it. In this case, the sleeve fit is also affected. I finally had to leave it until the holidays were done. Often I get bored of a project before I see the end of it, and this one is stretching my ability to persevere. The packaging has been ready, and now it's time for the home stretch. The tree is down and Christmas is packed away. It's time to start thinking about projects, styles, and plans for 2010 and I'm itching to get designing again. I have an idea in my head that will not go away, and that's a good sign.
Next week I begin teaching my 10 week class about clothing fit, so that's taking up a bit time. Details, details. I've just got to get back to my mannequin!