The Craftsy Experience

I've been in Denver this week taping a class for Craftsy (see Craftsy.com). If you haven't heard of this site, it's a company that pairs with the most knowledgeable instructors to create and market classes of all sorts for almost any type of creative talent such as sewing, knitting, cooking, crochet, drawing, cake decorating, gardening, the list is really long. In fact, they call their teachers "talent". I like that name. This idea of online classes really challenges the traditional way of learning, which has been through community classes and colleges, and even universities- if a person is interested in or needing a skill but not the degree. It's an asset to anyone who wants to learn (and has the internet) but doesn't have access to good teachers. Once you buy the class, it's yours forever. You can watch or review the class as many times as you like and ask any questions to get an answer from the teacher. The best part is it's not expensive.

I have taught sewing classes for many years, but video taping a class intended to last a lifetime seemed like a big responsibility! Our project will be the Tia Dress, with a few modifications that would add additional vintage techniques and lots of added value for the student. I added in a panel behind the side zipper (so it doesn't catch your Valentine Slip and under things as you zip up!) that I am calling a zipper facing, and added hem tape to some very important places, a zipper extension, a waist stay, and at the 2' turned up hem. I also included a lesson for a petticoat without a pattern and making a pattern piece for the bias trim. I show how do bust cup alterations and a hand sewn hem common in the 50s. All the way through I show you how I use my many vintage tools to good advantage.

Once I got to my motel, Craftsy shows me love with a small gift:

And I was met with a surprise from the baggage handlers too. My box with sewing supplies was shattered, and many things got broken.

I transferred my sewing supplies to my make-up bag and used shipping tape to span the broken side of my box to keep it inside.

 My meal was a "chili chicken" soup that was very yummy. I didn't know you could make water taste so good! (I'm not much of a cook :-\)

Every morning the make-up gal (see http://danicajardien.com/ ) came to pick us up, I and one other instructor, and we drove to the studio. The other instructor was teaching a figure drawing class. The days were long, as  I got up at 6:30am, usually ending around 7-8 pm. It didn't help that I had been burning the candle at both ends before I came. Danica did a fantastic job with my make up, but there is no magic to cover those dark and sleep deprived eyes!

This is the view from my room at 3am when I couldn't sleep.

 

I and the film crew ate lunch every day in the common room shared by all the businesses that rent in the building. I love it! It has a very cheerful feeling, but that piano would be an unwelcome sound should Craftsy be taping!

 

 I was able to get out of my room one night to get some fresh air and visit the mile long mall just a block away. Everyone was out trying to make some cash. There were beggars and really good musicians and horse and buggy rides too.

 

Homelessness is prevalent in Denver. There was a mission home close to where I was staying, and every night on my way back to the motel people were lined up for 3 blocks hoping to get a room for the night.  I discovered a guy who had made a home on the floor of the electrical room just a few doors down from my room. I met him coming out, and saw there was a bed on the floor. Thunder storms and rain are common at night, and he'd managed to find a warm place to sleep that was out of the way.
 After 3 solid days of sewing and filming and photos and sharing, the dress was finished. Though I worried about my performance, I'm not really sure why. The producer was kind and the whole crew was helpful and complimentary. It was truly a fascinating experience, but it was now time to pack up my bags and head for home. I'm looking forward to a long nap!

It was nice to meet the day with some sunshine too!

Rocky Mountain Sew Expo Vendor Review

Though I named my son Denver, it was not to honor the city I've not visited until now. I usually pack lighter than most vendors, but flying in for the show meant that I'd have to pack even less.

I kept telling everyone that I left the dancing girls at home, but what I really meant was that there would be no mannequins, displays, body forms, props or even extra clothing samples. 

Conscious of how much all this stuff would weigh (besides the airline limit, I had to lift and tow it all around!) I cut some pattern displays from foam board that served me very well. They were compact, light weight, easy to pack and assemble.

Together, DenverMart and Rusty Barns provided for, and treated their vendors very well. I had access to tables, risers, clothing racks, chairs, and waste baskets at no charge. There was a "break" room set up for vendors and every day was a fresh assortment of bagels and cream cheese, cookies, donuts, juice, water, coffee along with ice and a toaster to flavor, nourish and supply us during our hectic day. Everyone working for Rusy Barn Promotion group, including the owners, were friendly and hospitable.

With the show underway, I met many wonderful people. This group of Victorian/Edwardian ladies belong to a club (I forget the name!) that sews true to style clothing for any decade before 1940 and then they attend various venues together. Every town needs a club like this!

 My favorite vendor was Edie and Luc Roelens of Trims on Wheels. They have a little something (and priced) for everyone- high end and interesting to low cost basics. Positioned very close to my booth, it was an awful temptation. I managed to limit myself to 4 cuts of fabric, one rhinestone belt buckle and a brooch. They sell their trims online also, but the fabric you can buy only at some shows. See their show schedule online at  www.trimsonwheels.com

 This local vendor, Pam Cole of heavenly Threads sold kits for "Brazilian Dimensional Embroidery". It reminds me of the lovely handwork they did on dresses in the 1920's.

These shoes at Sue's Sparkler's are very cool! They make it possible to put sparkles on anything. Not that I would do it, but a great pair of shoes can't be missed.
www.suessparklers.com

This ribbon work by Helen Gibb Ribbonwork is especially lovely. Using any ribbon, wired or not, you can gather, pleat, embroider, and arrange ribbons to look like a bouquet of flowers. Many years ago my college professor put this ribbon work on a gown. Helen has written a book and put together an instructional DVD if you want to learn how to do it. www.helengibb.com

 The criteria for vending at this show was extremely loose. Besides real sewing and craft related stuff, there were vendors for pillows, massage chairs, shoes, makeup and jewelry, doll makers, and vacuum sales. Most of the jewelry by this vendor was hand made (though she doesn't want you to learn how to make it) with this set being a best seller at $50. www.victorianelegancejewelry.com

There was a high ratio of booths for various quilt and sewing guilds, the American Sewing Guild, Association for Sewing and Design Professionals, and other groups hoping to add new numbers to their ranks.

 At the shows end I pack up my gear and head across the parking lot. I see a single forlorn shoe. There is a mother out there with a frantic search in her future.

The sky is dark with a storm brewing. It's finally time to get out of Dodge. I mean Denver.

Strapless Prom Dress Add-a-Sleeve Projects

One of the most popular patterns to print from my free patterns page is a sleeve that can be sewn to a strapless dress. Today I'm going to share with you the photos from a couple of girls that used this pattern to add a sleeve to their prom dresses.

This first beauty in black and white (one of my favorite combinations!) was sewn by Karli:

Isn't she gorgeous?!

Can't miss the back with all those buttons!

Zoe looks stunning in this bright and cheerful orange and yellow dress. She added pleats to her sleeve to mirror the side drape, and made a flower in the same contrast fabric and attached at the side:

 

We all know which guy was her date!

Great job girls! You look marvelous!

It's a great beginner project too. Get the sleeve pattern here:
http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/free.html

Matching Print Fabrics: Foolish or Wise?

If you read my last blog post about Southern Belle, it mentions that gingham does not have to be matched. Kathleen asks about matching fabric prints and whether there is a guideline - well yes - and no. RTW clothing often will not match anything- even plaids- because it's time consuming and expensive because it takes more fabric, but also wastes fabric. This is true even for home sewers, but being the masters of our own creativity, we can choose whether it will be worth it. Here are the guidelines:

The simple guideline is that SMALL prints, such as gingham, do not need to be matched. Any effort to match them will create more trouble than will ever be noticed. Small and busy prints blend together at the seams without planning.

LARGE prints, can be matched, and always looks nice, but will the extra effort pay off in terms of satisfaction? This is the question to ask yourself. Think about whether the clothing style is compatible. Simple styles with few seams are the easiest. Will the pattern repeat work with the clothing dimension so that the pattern can be matched on all angles, or where will the "off center" spots be?  It's a very mathematical proposition to match a print at every seam and can be the source of a big head ache!Your project could end up a wadder just out of frustration.

Geometric fabrics like STRIPES and PLAIDS must always be matched to look nice. If any part is off, it will be noticed right away.

Here's a great link to Sewaholic for a tutorial on how she's match a print- plaids and stripes are matched in a similar fashion. Though she's matched this first seam for us, you can be sure that the opposite side does not match up at all. Read all about it:

http://sewaholic.net/how-to-match-prints-along-seams/

Sewing Detail: Sew Chic Southern Belle LN8503

Summer is definitely here, and I love all the bright happy colors that come with the season. I was in JoAnn Fabric recently and noticed that their gingham taffeta is back on the fabric shelf, perfect for a summer version of Southern Belle. For your inspiration pleasure, here's the detailing that I put into mine:

I love gingham because it's easy to layout and cut with the grain, and unlike plaid, does not need to be matched. It's a classic fabric that has the look of sweet innocence, rivaled only by dotted swiss (wish I had some of that!). The only deviation from the pattern is a bias pin-tucked yoke and embroidery, adding some color for a contrast ribbon.

First, cut a rectangle on the bias a little wider and longer than the yoke pattern piece. Using a 1/4" double needle with white thread, sew every other stripe, all lengthwise stripes first, then switch to the crosswise. It creates a pretty criss cross texture.

Be sure mark the yoke pattern with a bias grain line and cut out the pattern piece. The pattern calls for a lining also, which gives structure to the yoke and ensures that this bias piece will not ever stretch out of shape. Cut the lining on grain as marked. Include interfacing as directed.

Since my placement was to be over the seam, I added the embroidery after the skirt was complete. I used a Viking design from 1998 called Fantasy, Card #30, Design #3, but any flower could look lovely. 

Add a silk flower in similar color and flower type at the waist/bow for a real vintage effect and a summer dress knock out!

Straighten the Grain, Please

I have a pet peeve. I may have mentioned this before, but I'm going to mention it again. Most high end stores do not do this (thank you from the bottom of my heart!), but JoAnn Fabrics, (and many others) do this one thing that really gets me- they measure every inch so carefully along the fold or the selvage to make sure you won't get even one 1/2 inch more than what you (supposedly) paid for, but yet they don't start and end with an ON grain cut. Without this, you do not actually get the yardage that you've paid for, and if it shrinks at all with the pre-wash, you have lost even more of your purchase. In short, we the consumers are getting gypped.

My gripe isn't with the sales person (who likely doesn't sew) and is simply following the bosses instruction. I would like to see that any and all stores that sell fabric, and are pinching the fabric pennies, permanently change their procedure to include either tearing the fabric at both ends (where possible) or by taking the time to pulling a cross thread. This would also save me a step in the preparation process.

Once a (washable) piece of fabric gets home, it goes straight into the wash. I could minimize some fraying if I serged the cut ends, but I don't see the point to it because I have to cut the ends off anyway.

My fancy diagram is meant to show that whether measured from the selvage or the fold, it cannot come out quite right. When a fabric isn't cut on grain, the waste is also significant. Why straighten the grain? Because the fabric can't be folded together properly, and the paper pattern won't be laid perfectly on grain if I don't have a straight edge to start with, both length and width. To do this, I align the selvage and cross grain perpendicular to each other along a gridded cutting board before layout. This step is especially critical with slinky or silky slippery fabrics.

To find the cross grain, cut into the selvage about 1/2". If the fabric is a natural fiber (and sometimes a weak polyester can be torn), the yardage can be torn at this point.  If not, find a thread to pull. Pull that thread all the way across, carefully cutting with scissors along line left behind.Yes, the thread will likely break, but grab another next to it and keep going.

As I follow the actual thread, you can see how it's getting much wider. How much fabric do you think I will lose once I get to the other side?

What started out to be a 1" trim turned into 4". That's nearly an 1/8th of a yard!

So what can we do about this?

• Right away, ask the attendant to cut or tear your yardage before and after with the cross grain. (I've noticed that my JoAnn store has begun to ask if you'd like your fabric torn, but only after they've measured it).
• Don't chat with your cutter, and do count with them. I have never come up with too much over, but have been shorted many times, even up to a yard of fabric.
• If you end up short, even after washing, call the store. As long as you don't cut into your fabric, JoAnn will exchange or accept returns for yardage with a receipt.
• If your store cuts fabric with the grain already, PLEASE thank them for their care and concern, not just because it's good for their bottom line, but because you also get full use of the fabric you've paid for.

Together we can make a difference!

The Fast Fabric Interface

A few weeks ago we made up the Tia Dress in the black and white cotton fabric you see below. There are quite a few pieces that need to be interfaced. To speed this process up, here is what we do: 

Step 1: With the fusible side up, lay your pattern pieces wrong side down on top of interfacing. Be sure the grain of your fabric runs with the interfacing length of goods.

 

 Step 2: With a large piece of paper, cover the top completely. We used 2 opened paper sacks, but any paper large enough will work, just be sure that any print/inks do not transfer with heat or steam.

Step 3: With an iron, press each area to adhere the paper to the interfacing.

Step 4: Turn the paper over.

Step 5: Place a damp cloth over the first piece and press again from the backside, following the manufacturer's directions for length of time and iron temperature.

Step 6: Re-wet the cloth and press each additional pattern piece as needed.

Step 7: Cut each piece along the original cut line.

Step 8: Separate the paper from the fabric. You are now ready to sew!