Spring Styles Unveiled at Expo!

We had a GREAT time at the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in Puyallup, Washington last month. If you missed it, I can highly recommend this show to everyone who loves garment sewing. Yes, there are classes and vendors for quilting, but the split is fairly equal. Every year, Vogue Fabrics, (available online at http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/) comes to the show with rolls and rolls of beautiful fine fabrics at fantastic prices. It was all I could do to keep from taking it all home myself!

As a new vendor, everyone was so very welcoming. It is customary for all to wear ones own designs, and I was no different. Since there were only 4 days, there wasn't time to wear them all! I had to pick carefully. At the show I unveiled 2 new styles, Tia and Beatrice. The day I wore Beatrice, EVERYONE said I looked like Jackie O., that, or they mentioned Madmen. I've never seen that show, so one customer pulled up a photo of one of this actresses on her phone to show me what they were talking about:

Wow. To say I look like that is stretching it just a little...but I did receive plenty of compliments from everyone, and even the men-- however few there were. A fellow vendor at the end of my isle stopped me on the third day to say that he had noticed me every day, and that he wanted to tell me in the kindest way, how nice I looked. WHO wouldn't like that?? Now you want to know what is this dress that makes everyone think of a voluptuous Madmen actress in pink?

Please, let me introduce you to the Beatrice Pocket Dress. I love a dress with pockets, but these aren't ordinary pockets, they are interior kangaroo pockets. We've made our dress out of satin and lace, but this simple dress with upscale details could be made of just about any fabric.  

I didn't wear Tia, but I didn't need to. She got all the attention she needed at the Expo. This was also the debut style for the Saturday ASG fashion show. Everyone asked me about the fabric, but I couldn't be very helpful I got the fabric out of  my Aunts stash. It had been lingering there, unused, for far too long and she was ready to give it up. The minute I saw it, I knew it had to be a fun, full, flirty spring dress. Though we cannot get that fabric anymore, this style with a great contrast trim would look great in just about any kind of light to medium weight printed fabric. Perfect for your stash fabric too!

I am so excited about this last style because I have wanted to make it into a sewing pattern for a very long time now! I did this design several years ago for a competition, where it won a cash prize of $1000.  Now I know that's not like winning project runway or something, but that money helped in the start up of what would become my pattern line. Do you agree this dress is the very essence of stylishness? If you don't have an up coming event to wear this dress, I recommend you get your calendar right now and invent one!

Head on over to the shopping page where you can read the descriptions, see all the photos, and yes...I hope you'll take one or all of these new spring styles home with you today!

http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/shop.html

Come see me: Sewing and Stitchery Expo

It's nearly time for the SEWING and STITCHERY EXPO in Puyallup Washington, and we at Sew Chic are excited to meet you in person! If you weren't already planning to attend this show, it's not too late to make it happen. Many classes are still open and of course the shopping is fantastic because anything and everything sewing will be there for you to see, touch, try, and take home!  The dates are Feb 28- Mar 3 at the Puyallup Fair and Events Center. Come see me at booth # 928, (way in the back) and be the first to preview our newest pattern styles. For you true retro girls with advanced sewing skills, we will have a new "advanced" cocktail style that will knock your socks off. Please let me know you are on my mailing list too!

I will be teaching two classes. One will be on the free stage in the Showplex building called Abounding in Gowns at 9:30am, Thursday and Saturday. I will be showing you a few of the bridal gowns I have designed and some of the evening gowns that were made specifically for, and accepted into a juried competition. For a gown to be accepted by a jury, it must be unusual, special, or interesting. To win, it must be impressive. Through the presentation, I will talk with you about the construction and techniques that provide the structure for these gowns. You might be surprised at how easy it can be!

The second class is also in the Showplex, room C, called Contemporary Vintage, #1063 at 1:30, Friday and Sunday. Last I checked, there was a bit of room still, but the friday class is filling faster. In this class, it will be a bit of a study of sewing patterns from 1930's to about 1980's. I will go over the basics of what to expect from these patterns based on the times and technology available so you can successfully get along with a vintage pattern. You may be surprised to learn how drastically the sizes, body shapes, terminology, techniques, visuals, and sewing knowledge and skill have changed compared to modern times. Last touch on how to make a modern pattern look vintage or switch a vintage pattern to look modern.  
For more information about the show or to sign up for classes, visit http://www.sewexpo.com/

Hope to see you there!
Laura

Fitting Pants from the Rear

Today I came across Leena's website at http://www.leenas.com/English/draw_women_pants.html with a great tutorial for drafting your own pant pattern using the Scandinavian drafting method. She's done a very good job of organizing the procedure with charts for measurements and ease.  Drafting a standard pant from measurements is about the same, no matter what method you use. Everything is added, divided up, and placed on paper using our curved and straight rulers.

The problem comes in when our bodies are not so evenly divided. Even with drafting, we still use a standard way of laying it on paper. In my experience, drafting can get us only so far, and by no means eliminates the need for fine tuning.

There must be literally millions of blog pages full of fitting woes and solutions, but these last few weeks I've been working with a private client and this week and I did her pant fitting. I thought I'd share my observations with you.

My drawing below is a similar shape to what the pattern pieces look like, with the black being the front pattern and the red being the back. Pants can be drafted side by side, or the front is drafted first, and the back built off it. Either way, the center back crotch is tipped outward to make room for our rear. How much it should tip depends upon how much rear we have. If your rear is more flat than the standard then your pattern should tip less. If your rear is larger, then your pattern should be tipped more to make enough space. The green lines roughly represent those differences.

 When dividing up the crotch space, the back gets more than the front, but for someone with a large rear, the crotch should have an even deeper scoop and longer length than the standard shape.

 And the pattern shape for a flat rear will have less curve and length to it.

   
 The standard pattern change is to take in or let out using a horizontal dart cut from center back, creating the same shape as described.  Understanding the relationship of the figure to the shape of the patten can go a long way with the fit before we ever get started, and can hopefully save us hours upon hours of fitting changes and muslin making. Cheers to all us fat/flat bottom girls!

Darts in Clothing that hit the Bullseye

This morning I gave a presentation to my local group of American Sewing Guild members. I'm sure you'd like a picture of it, but I can never remember to take photos of the (interesting?) things I do when I'm out and about. I forgot again. Anyway, the topic was darts.

To get us off on the right track, here is a quiz for you. A dart is widely understood to be:

•A) The stinger of an insect.

B) A game in which small, slender, pointed missiles are thrown at a target.

•

• 
C) A sudden, rapid movement.

•

• 
D) A fold sewn into fabric to help provide a three-dimensional shape to a garment.

Though I have moved quickly to avoid being stung by a bee while attempting to hit a target with a small slender missile, I am really best qualified to speak on the three-dimensional fabric type, which I think are largely misunderstood. Here are the basics:

See how nicely those imitation darts (dotted lines) fit so well into the curves of our lady? The main point I would like to make about darts is that 1) the type, shape, length and width need to be personalized. One dart cannot be all things for all people. It can be for some, but not all. Let's see how those lovely darts look on someone of a different figure type:

You see what I mean- Not such a good match up.

The next thing to keep in mind is that a dart should never be longer than the apex of the curve it will be fitting.

So, what happens when a dart is too big? You'll end up with a big poof or bulge where you don't need it, as in the Sewing Lawyers experience with Vogue 1324.

The photo I want you to see:

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrtBBPD0HxZ15zcq34WHRRcNMl_hzulX3sPh2WSvizaqfU9dCjoxX1Yiuadws2p2Cuc9WN6HRTIckWpjDN36YIrgrxHEnmKjLI4CcYB2AP8gJima8HJrddYKEy_Av_zugJ5z-fEzqgZm4/s320/IMG_1002.JPG

The whole blog post: http://kaythesewinglawyer.blogspot.ca/2012/09/fits-and-starts.html

Okay, but how to fix it? Make the dart smaller (draw in a smaller dart, and not so long) and then take another avenue to reduce the now too large waist.

So What happens if a dart is too small?  You'll see drag lines and/or pulling, but be careful because the cause may not be the darts at all. You might think these draglines point to a need for a full bust adjustment as with Kadiddlehopper when she made Sew Chic 7401:

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8-UCXdTMKzTyWUug_S2eSuHY2-wNzk2VrE_CJudErESgOyNn-IFQ-t2F6qwzg-5NM3GjKLdfukOZR8I9iiIQCupaBpERb8wLAqvjmzWb2-v1V5zHBUCKTmyMuGUalRDB8D7PaRdJ3i9A/s320/IMG_5478.JPG        

The right solution to this problem may surprise you. Read about it on her blog here:

http://katiekadiddlehopper.blogspot.com/search?q=myrtlewood#!/2010/01/myrtlewood-muslin.html 

Sometimes a pattern comes without any darts when it really needs one. Read about our experience with Butterick 5601.

http://www.sewchicpatterns.blogspot.com/2012/11/when-dart-will-do.html

I challenge you to look for new ways to use darts for fitting. Of course they can be both friend and foe, but when used right, they work wonders!

The Pieced Skirt using the Starter Pattern

This week I did a photo shoot with my model, and we really pick a lovely day for it! The sun was shinning and the air was cold but clear. For just a day we thought it was Spring while tromping around with our rack of clothes and a camera for 5 hours. We got some beautiful pictures! My pieced skirt is one that I can share with you now. I did this pattern especially for the ASG conference (LA, Aug. 2011!).

It is the ultimate for those of you who love quilting or want total creativity and control, and is very earth friendly!

CREATING DIGITAL FABRICS

• The textile pattern was created digitally on my computer using Photoshop, so the the colors in the two fabrics match perfectly.
• The fabric was then printed directly onto my  prepared-for-printing 100% cotton fabric using my standard inkjet printer. (YES! It's machine washable!)
• The size of the skirt pieces were purposely sized small enough to fit onto a standard size page, and designed to eliminate waste.
• 
  I turned my textile pattern to look like it's bias, while printing on the fabric grain the length of the page.
• I used scrap fabric that would have otherwise been tossed out.
• The expense went into the 100% silk organza on the bottom, which makes this skirt look fabulous!

THE PROJECT PATTERN
It all started with the Sew Chic Patterns Starter Skirt, #LN1000, view A (8 gore). Instead of using one of the waistbands, I used bias binding to finish off the waist. Reinforce that finished waist measurement though, as it will easily stretch out of shape.

I encourage you to try this yourself! If it's your first time, start with a simple style, whatever you make.

VINTAGE FABRICS TUTORIAL CD
For those of you short on time and just interested in learning how to make and print your own digital fabrics, great for quilting and other piece work (like this skirt), I've created a tutorial CD that includes a digital copy of this fabric you can print yourself, along with more than 300 digital vintage prints arranged by era taken from actual fabric, and a tutorial for how to make your own fabric designs at
https://sewchicpatterns.com/product/print-your-own-vintage-fabric-cd/

FREE OFFER
To make this exact skirt, you'll need to buy the Starter Skirt from Sew Chic Patterns here. Want the complete instructions? For my blog readers only, with the purchase of this pattern, include a NOTE TO SELLER at checkout and let me know that you read this blog and want the instruction sheet for the "Pieced Skirt." We will send it along FREE  with (paper) or after (PDF) your Starter Skirt pattern purchase. These instructions includes the story of how I came up with the skirt idea, layout and construction notes, and the pieced skirt pattern set in size 10. I'm sure it will inspire you to come up with your own great ideas too!

It's time to have a really great sewing day!  

Laura

Here I come, Sew Expo Puyallup!

Did you get your Sewing and Stitchery Expo- THE sew expo of all expos in Puyallup, WA- brochure in the mail this week? If not, then you can download it online here
 https://siterepository.s3.amazonaws.com/569/2013_sewing_and_stitchery_brochure.pdf
but let me warn you that it's 42 pages big and packed full of almost every kind of sewing class you can think of taught by all your favorite famous and some not so famous seamsters, from Nancy Zieman to....um.....ME! This show is not an easy one to get in to, especially to teach. The show producers carefully screen all participants, both teachers and vendors to ensure you get quality teachers and products that will be new, interesting, and well rounded.

I will be teaching a 1 needle class on Friday and Sunday at 1:30 called "Contemporary Vintage." We will be discussing vintage patterns, and through the years how they differ from modern patterns in terms of fit, instruction, and the techniques they use and expect you will already know. I submitted and resubmitted several class proposals, then edit and re-edit the final selection. Writing this little blurb is harder than you think!

 On the free stage I'll be doing a short presentation on eveningwear. I have a model coming to show you some of the best designs that have been in juried competitions, and I'll talk about the specialty of constructing eveningwear, and answer any questions you may have. Very conveniently, on Saturday I'll also be participating in the American Sewing Guild fashion show. Being a member has it's perks!

On the sewexpo.com website is a link to speaker biographies. 52 pages are listed by name in alphabetical order, putting me right below the very talented Mary Mulari. I remember her teaching very clever crafts on Nancy Zieman's TV sewing show when I was first starting out in my professional career in the late 1980's. I could never schedule my day so that I could watch it, but it's quite an honor to be on the same page with her now!

If you've ordered anything from me for the last 6 months you would have received a "save the date" bookmark. I'm now holding all new designs until the show, so I hope you too are making plans to be there with me February 28-March 30, 2013. You can expect to see many of the same sewing experts, and others that are new. Together we can make this into one of the best venues for the new generation of sewists.  Do you go every year? Will you be there this year? What other changes do you see, or would you like to see?

Can you Spot a Quality Fabric?

Fabric selection at Sew and Sews Place

The rumor still lives.... the one that says you shouldn't use quilting cotton for making garments. This week I was asked about this because (somewhere) it is written not to do this.  Did this tale get started because quilters are stingy and don't want to share their cute prints? Are there quilt store owners that just don't want apparel sewing customers? Is it from snobby couture tailors? Well, where ever it came from, it's just plain not true. You have my permission (if you need it!) to use ANY type of materials that will lay down and be cut and fold up to be sewn - canvas, duck cloth, cheesecloth, buckrum, aida, upholstery, vinyl...AND quilting cotton- for wearable attire. A good outcome is really dependent on your fabric being of quality construction - and of course appropriate for the style in drape or "hand" (this is just as important as the quality) and it helps to have an attractive color and print type.

Understanding quality of fabric thoroughly would take up a whole text book, but let's just boil it down to the most critical points to know.  Some of the fabric information you need to know is listed on the fabric bolt, you know, that flattened piece of cardboard  the fabric is wrapped around:

1. Fiber
Is it natural or man-made?  Natural fibers are usually more expensive (wool, silk, cotton, linen- being made from wood pulp, I also put Rayon in this category), will shrink when washed, and are a joy to wear (breathable) and sew with (- yes, even silk!), but man-made, or synthetic fibers (polyester, olefin, nylon, acrylic) can take hard use, and are often stain resistant, and do not shrink with washing. The expense of natural fibers are made more affordable by mixing with a man-made fiber. One of the problems with this comes in the form of pilling, especially when mixing polyester with cotton. Cotton is made of short strands twisted together. The short strands continually sluff off, but the long and strong poly fibers hang on to it, creating the pill.
2. Yarn
The yarns of man made fibers can either be extruded into one long strand or they can be made to imitate natural fibers, creating a copycat fabric that is very hard to distinguish from the real thing. However, the yarns of a natural fiber not only determine the look of the fabric, but also the quality. Long fibers are usually more expensive (think silk satin), but short fibers woven together can create beautiful textures, as in Silk Shantung or Dupioni. The thickness and twist of the yarn makes a difference too. Without a microscope who would know what the twist is?  We consumers aren't concerned with this feature very often, but there is at least one type of fabric that you know where a high twist yarn makes a loveliest texture, and that is with Crepe. High quality crepe is so hard to find. If you get the chance, FEEL the a crepe dress from the 30's or 40's. Our modern Crepe fabrics do not even compare.
3. Weave
The weave in a fabric refers to the interlacing of the threads. Terms such as jacquard, satin, twill, crepe, etc, describe this interlacing. In a plain weave where the lengthwise and crosswise threads are woven over and then under each other, a tight weave is a sign of high quality. How many yarns per square inch did they use? If you hold the fabric up to the light can you see holes though the weave? Don't be fooled by a loose weave that feels stiff. Manufactures treat these fabrics with a starch finish that will become limp and soggy with the first washing.
3. Finishes
Dyes, printing process, starching, other treatments for wrinkling, etc.These treatments can happen at the time the fiber is made, or after the fabric has been woven. For example, a pattern that has been woven into the fabric is going to be higher quality than a pattern that was stamped on and may not be parallel to the grain. Cheap dyes can rub off on your hand and color your undergarments.

If you want to read more about spotting quality fabrics, here is a good blog post that I can refer you to:
http://www.secondcherry.com/quality-1.html

The bottom line is that both good and poor quality fabric can be found on the clearance rack, in the quilting store, at the second hand shop. It's not what it's called, but how it's made that matters!