Craftsy Class Giveaway

Recently, I received photos and other graphics from the Craftsy class I taped in August.

 

Seeing these photos for the first time was pretty exciting and reminded me all over again why I accepted their request to teach this class. This new age of internet has made learning so accessible and affordable for everyone, no matter their station in life, and I am pleased that I can be a part of it.

We now call it information overload, but when I was learning to sew, this kind of specialized information was hard to get, if not from family or friends. Where would someone go to find someone willing to “show” us how?  As a teenager, I knew of a Russian woman in town that was a clothing designer and I wondered if she had something she could teach me? I was shy and insecure, and didn’t know the questions to ask. I only knew I wanted to learn.

I hope that anyone would be able to ask me. I invite you to ask me. Perhaps you don't know the questions either. This can make a project class (like those offered at Craftsy) so perfect. We learn by practice and doing. Even if you have been sewing for a long time, discovering a different way of "doing" is also of value. Remember that there are many roads that lead to Rome.

The Craftsy class is not quite ready for purchase, but while we wait, I’m happy to announce a class giveaway. Between now and Oct 8, 2013, please sign up to be entered into a giveaway for my class “Sewing Vintage: The Flirty Day Dress” through this link:

http://www.craftsy.com/ext/LauraNash_Giveaway

The winner will be announced on the first day of class, so stay tuned for that date! If you win, the class will be yours from day one.

So, until you see these banners everywhere........enter the giveaway, and Good Luck!

Craftsy Sewing Vintage: The Tia Dress Details

While you wait for my Craftsy class, officially named "Sewing Vintage: The Flirty Day Dress" set to debut in October, let me share with you the special techniques and extra features included with the class project, the Tia Dress, mailed to you FREE with the class. Besides all the extra dress features listed here, I go into the use of vintage tools, still in use today, and show you how they can be used for speed and accuracy. I go through the essential pattern alterations you may need to do, including altering the bust for cup size, including the math for anything from an A cup to a DD.

Here is just the list of special vintage features added to the dress:

 1. MAKE YOUR OWN TRIM

The pattern calls for purchased bias binding, but in the class, we make a pattern for this wider trim so that any fabric or color can be used to trim the bodice, taking a 1/4 yard of contrast fabric. Instruction for this bow is not included with the class, but you can make one for yourself using the same pattern piece.We also make a pattern piece for the zipper facing.

make your own trim

 2. THE VINTAGE LAPPED ZIPPER

A side zipper is oh, so vintage! You know I've said it before, and I'll say it again - once you know how, a side zipper is so much easier to sew than a back zipper, and you look good from the front and the back! In this class, we want to go back in time to the days when, in addition to our usual under things, women also wore slips for modesty (and girdles for shape and structure). To keep from catching your slip in the [metal] zipper and ruining it, women would sometimes add a facing to the zipper area, such as we still see in our modern-day slacks. This facing also serves as a privacy panel, and looks oh, so couture!

The perfect lapped zipper really does need an extension on the lapped side. The usual seam allowance can turn out to be a rather sparse edge for top stitching into place.

the vintage zipper extension

 4. STAY THE WAIST

As a technique, a waist stay has many benefits, but most important, it keeps your waist measurement locked in place so it won't stretch with wearing.

a waist stay is a must!

 5. VINTAGE SEAM FINISHES

In deciding on a seam finish for the class, I went through my collection of dresses from the 1920's to the 1960's, and the most common seam finish, even for a store purchased garment, really is the pinked edge. I found it used on everything. In places where the seam was bias, there was no finish whatsoever- in this case, they simply pinked up to the bias, tapering off to nothing. The lesson in this is do not under rate those pinking shears! Though I took the time to do a straight stitch inside the pinking, it really wasn't necessary. My dress has been wash, and you can see there is practically no fray at all. Of course it helps to start with a quality fabric.

seam finish with pinking shears

 5. THE VINTAGE HEM

The pattern calls for trim at the hem, eliminating the need to top stitch or ease in a full hem. In the class, we've eliminated the trim and instead I show you a special technique for easing a wide hem all in one step. I use hem tape to transition the hem, and I show you a different way, common to the 1950's, to hand stitch the hem in place.

 6. BONUS PETTICOAT LESSON

No vintage girl would be without a petticoat, so we make a two ruffle petticoat without a pattern to wear under your skirt. I show you how easy it is to sew ruffle to ruffle, all in one step, using a ruffler foot. This wonderful foot will cost you $15-25, but will save you HOURS in time. Top stitching over the seam (as the top ruffle is) is a really nice detail, but optional.

add a petticoat for structure

This is so much more bonus about tools, technique, fitting, alterations, and everything that I do to make clothing look professional, I share with you. I am super excited and really looking forward to the class launch. Is there anything I have missed? Any other technique you could possibly want to know that is not already included?

Behind the Scenes at Craftsy

The project I'm teaching at Craftsy is this Tia Dress

 "So how was your trip to Denver?" my son asked me. Having filmed and edited movies before, he wanted to know the "behind the scenes" in making a Craftsy class. "You mean there is no script?"  The outline that my producer and I had sketched out weeks before was as much a script as there was.  This outline helps the producer evaluate the content to keep each lesson within the maximum time allotment and ensures that the critical elements are included.

Once on the set, the things I had yet to perfect were more movie-like than academia, things like remembering the format for introducing each lesson. It turned out to be a tongue twister to say "Sewing Vintage" instead of "Vintage Sewing." A sign taped it to the camera  helped me out immensely.  

With two cameras trained on me at all times, it's appropriate to:

• speak to the camera whenever possible
• when sewing, keep my left hand flat
• don't talk to just to fill space
• if I need to stop, turn statuesque (and don't move anything!)
• move slowly so the camera has time to follow
• keep all tools/step outs close at hand

We would start the day as soon as make up and wardrobe was complete. The goal was to complete 3-4 lessons in a day, and though video can be picture perfect (retaping again and again), it's a tight schedule to keep, and frankly, it's unnatural to be too scripted. It's the Craftsy way to share the teachers eloquence and skill as it happens, just as it would be in a classroom experience. However, the last day was a rough start for me, continually stumbling over my words. I was able to begin again and soon I had my rhythm going.

Nine different lessons means nine different outfits. I had to stay away from  solid white, black, stripes or small prints, and that ruled out much of my wardrobe. Wearing a microphone also meant that my clothing had to be capable of both hiding the wire and clipping to something- a pant, skirt, or some kind of belt. I packed my suitcase with anything and everything that had possibility. One thing that didn't work in my favor was dress linings and taffetas. I had put on the Beatrice dress in plaid and was ready to start the lesson when the camera man stopped me. "I hear something" he says. He fiddles with my microphone and goes back to his post. I begin talking, and again he stops me. Puzzled, he says "What do you have on under there?" The stiff lining made crackling noises!


I hope you'll take my class, set to debut in October. I am teaching some very unique vintage sewing techniques using the Tia Dress, # LN 1312, and you get the pattern sent to you free with the class purchase. Next week I'll show you some of the special features that we'll be doing in the class. And as we say at Craftsy....

I'm Laura Nash, and THIS is Sewing Vintage!

The Craftsy Experience

I've been in Denver this week taping a class for Craftsy (see Craftsy.com). If you haven't heard of this site, it's a company that pairs with the most knowledgeable instructors to create and market classes of all sorts for almost any type of creative talent such as sewing, knitting, cooking, crochet, drawing, cake decorating, gardening, the list is really long. In fact, they call their teachers "talent". I like that name. This idea of online classes really challenges the traditional way of learning, which has been through community classes and colleges, and even universities- if a person is interested in or needing a skill but not the degree. It's an asset to anyone who wants to learn (and has the internet) but doesn't have access to good teachers. Once you buy the class, it's yours forever. You can watch or review the class as many times as you like and ask any questions to get an answer from the teacher. The best part is it's not expensive.

I have taught sewing classes for many years, but video taping a class intended to last a lifetime seemed like a big responsibility! Our project will be the Tia Dress, with a few modifications that would add additional vintage techniques and lots of added value for the student. I added in a panel behind the side zipper (so it doesn't catch your Valentine Slip and under things as you zip up!) that I am calling a zipper facing, and added hem tape to some very important places, a zipper extension, a waist stay, and at the 2' turned up hem. I also included a lesson for a petticoat without a pattern and making a pattern piece for the bias trim. I show how do bust cup alterations and a hand sewn hem common in the 50s. All the way through I show you how I use my many vintage tools to good advantage.

Once I got to my motel, Craftsy shows me love with a small gift:

And I was met with a surprise from the baggage handlers too. My box with sewing supplies was shattered, and many things got broken.

I transferred my sewing supplies to my make-up bag and used shipping tape to span the broken side of my box to keep it inside.

 My meal was a "chili chicken" soup that was very yummy. I didn't know you could make water taste so good! (I'm not much of a cook :-\)

Every morning the make-up gal (see http://danicajardien.com/ ) came to pick us up, I and one other instructor, and we drove to the studio. The other instructor was teaching a figure drawing class. The days were long, as  I got up at 6:30am, usually ending around 7-8 pm. It didn't help that I had been burning the candle at both ends before I came. Danica did a fantastic job with my make up, but there is no magic to cover those dark and sleep deprived eyes!

This is the view from my room at 3am when I couldn't sleep.

 

I and the film crew ate lunch every day in the common room shared by all the businesses that rent in the building. I love it! It has a very cheerful feeling, but that piano would be an unwelcome sound should Craftsy be taping!

 

 I was able to get out of my room one night to get some fresh air and visit the mile long mall just a block away. Everyone was out trying to make some cash. There were beggars and really good musicians and horse and buggy rides too.

 

Homelessness is prevalent in Denver. There was a mission home close to where I was staying, and every night on my way back to the motel people were lined up for 3 blocks hoping to get a room for the night.  I discovered a guy who had made a home on the floor of the electrical room just a few doors down from my room. I met him coming out, and saw there was a bed on the floor. Thunder storms and rain are common at night, and he'd managed to find a warm place to sleep that was out of the way.
 After 3 solid days of sewing and filming and photos and sharing, the dress was finished. Though I worried about my performance, I'm not really sure why. The producer was kind and the whole crew was helpful and complimentary. It was truly a fascinating experience, but it was now time to pack up my bags and head for home. I'm looking forward to a long nap!

It was nice to meet the day with some sunshine too!

Rocky Mountain Sew Expo Vendor Review

Though I named my son Denver, it was not to honor the city I've not visited until now. I usually pack lighter than most vendors, but flying in for the show meant that I'd have to pack even less.

I kept telling everyone that I left the dancing girls at home, but what I really meant was that there would be no mannequins, displays, body forms, props or even extra clothing samples. 

Conscious of how much all this stuff would weigh (besides the airline limit, I had to lift and tow it all around!) I cut some pattern displays from foam board that served me very well. They were compact, light weight, easy to pack and assemble.

Together, DenverMart and Rusty Barns provided for, and treated their vendors very well. I had access to tables, risers, clothing racks, chairs, and waste baskets at no charge. There was a "break" room set up for vendors and every day was a fresh assortment of bagels and cream cheese, cookies, donuts, juice, water, coffee along with ice and a toaster to flavor, nourish and supply us during our hectic day. Everyone working for Rusy Barn Promotion group, including the owners, were friendly and hospitable.

With the show underway, I met many wonderful people. This group of Victorian/Edwardian ladies belong to a club (I forget the name!) that sews true to style clothing for any decade before 1940 and then they attend various venues together. Every town needs a club like this!

 My favorite vendor was Edie and Luc Roelens of Trims on Wheels. They have a little something (and priced) for everyone- high end and interesting to low cost basics. Positioned very close to my booth, it was an awful temptation. I managed to limit myself to 4 cuts of fabric, one rhinestone belt buckle and a brooch. They sell their trims online also, but the fabric you can buy only at some shows. See their show schedule online at  www.trimsonwheels.com

 This local vendor, Pam Cole of heavenly Threads sold kits for "Brazilian Dimensional Embroidery". It reminds me of the lovely handwork they did on dresses in the 1920's.

These shoes at Sue's Sparkler's are very cool! They make it possible to put sparkles on anything. Not that I would do it, but a great pair of shoes can't be missed.
www.suessparklers.com

This ribbon work by Helen Gibb Ribbonwork is especially lovely. Using any ribbon, wired or not, you can gather, pleat, embroider, and arrange ribbons to look like a bouquet of flowers. Many years ago my college professor put this ribbon work on a gown. Helen has written a book and put together an instructional DVD if you want to learn how to do it. www.helengibb.com

 The criteria for vending at this show was extremely loose. Besides real sewing and craft related stuff, there were vendors for pillows, massage chairs, shoes, makeup and jewelry, doll makers, and vacuum sales. Most of the jewelry by this vendor was hand made (though she doesn't want you to learn how to make it) with this set being a best seller at $50. www.victorianelegancejewelry.com

There was a high ratio of booths for various quilt and sewing guilds, the American Sewing Guild, Association for Sewing and Design Professionals, and other groups hoping to add new numbers to their ranks.

 At the shows end I pack up my gear and head across the parking lot. I see a single forlorn shoe. There is a mother out there with a frantic search in her future.

The sky is dark with a storm brewing. It's finally time to get out of Dodge. I mean Denver.

Strapless Prom Dress Add-a-Sleeve Projects

One of the most popular patterns to print from my free patterns page is a sleeve that can be sewn to a strapless dress. Today I'm going to share with you the photos from a couple of girls that used this pattern to add a sleeve to their prom dresses.

This first beauty in black and white (one of my favorite combinations!) was sewn by Karli:

Isn't she gorgeous?!

Can't miss the back with all those buttons!

Zoe looks stunning in this bright and cheerful orange and yellow dress. She added pleats to her sleeve to mirror the side drape, and made a flower in the same contrast fabric and attached at the side:

 

We all know which guy was her date!

Great job girls! You look marvelous!

It's a great beginner project too. Get the sleeve pattern here:
http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/free.html

Matching Print Fabrics: Foolish or Wise?

If you read my last blog post about Southern Belle, it mentions that gingham does not have to be matched. Kathleen asks about matching fabric prints and whether there is a guideline - well yes - and no. RTW clothing often will not match anything- even plaids- because it's time consuming and expensive because it takes more fabric, but also wastes fabric. This is true even for home sewers, but being the masters of our own creativity, we can choose whether it will be worth it. Here are the guidelines:

The simple guideline is that SMALL prints, such as gingham, do not need to be matched. Any effort to match them will create more trouble than will ever be noticed. Small and busy prints blend together at the seams without planning.

LARGE prints, can be matched, and always looks nice, but will the extra effort pay off in terms of satisfaction? This is the question to ask yourself. Think about whether the clothing style is compatible. Simple styles with few seams are the easiest. Will the pattern repeat work with the clothing dimension so that the pattern can be matched on all angles, or where will the "off center" spots be?  It's a very mathematical proposition to match a print at every seam and can be the source of a big head ache!Your project could end up a wadder just out of frustration.

Geometric fabrics like STRIPES and PLAIDS must always be matched to look nice. If any part is off, it will be noticed right away.

Here's a great link to Sewaholic for a tutorial on how she's match a print- plaids and stripes are matched in a similar fashion. Though she's matched this first seam for us, you can be sure that the opposite side does not match up at all. Read all about it:

http://sewaholic.net/how-to-match-prints-along-seams/