Pattern Tutorial: Fantasia Dress Variation

Fantasia Variation - how to go from the Opera to the Office

I love the Fantasia dress pattern with a fitted bodice and flared high-low skirt- words like formal, feminine, cultured, clean, classic and bridal come to mind. All my designs are fairly girly- but recently I had to rethink that concept when I approached a wholesale fabric vendor from the International Textiles Expo who was interested in collaboration. She was to send me fabrics for a blouse and skirt from my pattern collection and we would represent each other at the fashion show and market. I love teaming up!

Then the fabrics came -- a pinstriped navy and blue/gray suiting. The tweed, as our vendor called it (it's not an obvious tweed weave) was soft and thick with the right amount of body and the shirting was crisp and tightly woven. They washed up beautifully and high quality fabrics are always a dream to work with, but....it was a little on the "manly" side. Hmmm. Would this work for a girly twirly skirt? I looked at my patterns and nothing seemed quite right until finally the thought came to me: combine these two fabrics with the Fantasia dress, then complete the look with the Victory Jacket and voila! I've got the suit style that this fabric needs. This outfit has a definite 1940s vibe, and made for fall, this combination will definitely be one of my season favorites.

I chose the low-calf length, view B, but for a formal event, the longer length (view A) would look fabulous too. For this blouse and skirt look-a-like, I used the tweed for the skirt and jacket and the contrasting navy fabric for the dress bodice. It looks like a skirt and blouse, and because it won't come un-tucked, it wears even better!

 

The fabric completely changed the look of Fantasia and is an easy way to move into the look of a suit without all the typical tailoring. When cutting out the pattern, I simply used the navy pinstripe for the bodice and sleeve pieces and tweed for everything else.

I decided to switch out the cap sleeve for a longer length. I used the sleeve from Beatrice and shortened it to just above the elbow, which is about 6-6 1/2" from the underarm, finished. Rather than using the sleeve facing, I turned up the bottom 1" and did a blind hem on the sleeve (the alteration means the facing wouldn't fit anymore anyway!). Other than that, the dress has no other variation.

The gray tweed was used for the skirt section, and to transition the two fabrics, I added in a 2" wide covered belt.

To make the belt, follow the tutorial I did for the Sew Mama Sew blog called "Made to Match." Find that tutorial here:
http://www.sewmamasew.com/2013/10/made-to-match-belt-tutorial-from-laura-nash-of-the-sew-chic-pattern-company/

To further separate the identities of the top and bottom, I finished the skirt seams  by pressing open, turning under 1/4", and top stitching through all layers about 3/8" to the right and left of every vertical seam. The bodice seams were serged. See the next photos for a view of the skirt seam.

These pictures shows the "V" detail in the skirt "train" where it attaches at center back.

This photo shows the inside finish of the skirt seams turned under and stitched. To emphasize the lovely flares and help  it keep structure under the weight of this suiting fabric, I tucked a 1/2" wide horsehair braid down into that hem allowance and topstitched everything into place in one step.
 

The Victory Jacket was made as is outlined in the instruction booklet with only one variation...

I turned back the front from the side of the neck, parallel to center front and tacked it with a flat 5/8" covered button.

This dress is soft and comfortable to wear and oh so pretty. What do you think of the new Fantasia suit look?
Buy the Fantasia pattern here: http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/fantasia.html
Buy the Victory Jacket pattern here: http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/victory.html

Have a great sewing day!
Laura

2015 A Year to Look Forward to!

Hello Readers! Isn't life great!? We get one pass at this crazy maze on earth, and no matter our situation, it is always worth the effort to seek the good, and be grateful. 2014 has been a good year filled with good moments, new friends and connections, and opportunities. I attended two new shows, one of them being the American Sewing Guild conference. With the passing of another year, it's a good time to look ahead as well. Here's a list of few of the events and collaborations to look forward to!

 

 

 

 

Sew News is sponsoring a Sew Along with Rhonda Buss using the Valentine slip!

The sew along starts March 2 and will last 4 weeks, ending March 23. It includes photos and video posted to the Sew News Blog.  It's 100% FREE, so support the sew along by purchasing your pattern from
the  Sew News Sew it All Shop. http://www.sewnews.com/index.html
Read the Sew News article and see their version of the Valentine Slip here: 

http://www.jillcase.com/resources/Sew%20and%20Tell%201503.pdf

It's a beauty!

 International Textile Expo

In March I'll be heading for Las Vegas and the ITE show. This is not consumer show, but is a show for retail stores. Will your retail store be here? I hope so! I will be participating in a fashion show, which is always fun to do, and with any luck, will get some good photos I can post.

 

 

 

 

Article For Threads

I am writing an article for Threads Magazine called "Mix and Match Patterns." It's a pattern making "how to" for successfully combining elements from different patterns in a surprisingly new way. It will be published in the Aug/Sept. 2015 issue #180. I think you're going to like it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Designing for Simplicity

I'm very excited to announce that I am now a special designer for the well-known Simplicity Patterns! I spent all of December designing and sewing my first pattern for them. It's been a favorite of my fans for years; a style I call Pongo. This pattern will be available with the Fall 2015 catalog, available about August or September. In connection with this, we are starting our own sew along site too! I'll be posting more about that later :-)

Happy New Year, and as always, Keep on Sewing!