How to Resize to Plus Size Sewing Pattern: The Sew Chic Spin Skirt or Pretty Petticoat

Hi Everyone! I often get requests to resize my sewing patterns for the vintage curvy girls- and while I would LOVE to do that, there are just too many hurdles of every kind to tackle that type of expansion right now. In the mean time, enjoy this easy to do DIY tutorial for resizing the Sew Chic Spin Skirt, #LN1209.

To start off, we need to do a little math. It's very handy that the waist/hip ratio in my example is exactly the same as the waist/hip ratio on my chart: 10" difference. If your ratio is different, I will mention what to do about that in a few steps, but for now we are going to need only the waist numbers.

We  need to find out how much difference there is between the waist measurement and the chart. Subtract the chart size 18 (38") from your measurement and divide the difference by 4.

 

The result is how much we need to add to the pattern, both front and back.

Make a long strip, 3 3/4" wide (per my example, your number may be different) that we can tape to our pattern. I used my cutting board grid to draw the first line, and then I'll measure across and make some dash marks to follow all the way down. Don't trust your board to measure for you. They are great for making straight lines, but as you can see, the squares on my board are not accurate.



Now connect your dash marks, creating two parallel lines.

Here are my two lines with 3 3/4" between them.

 With the yoke front, match up the first line with the center front line on the yoke. Tape in place.

Using the grid board and your ruler, square off the top and bottom, extending the yoke pattern.

 Relabel your pattern markings. Cross out the old labeling so you will know what to do if you use this pattern again in the future. Your pattern should look like this. In my example, I need to cut from the extension and follow the size 18 cut line.







If your waist hip ratio is smaller than 10", cut the size 18 and make any needed changes during fittings. If your waist/hip ratio is larger, it is at this point you would reshape the hip curve at the side seam, adding width to the bottom of the pattern (1/4 of the
ratio difference), tapering from nothing  at the waist. For example, if your waist/hip difference is 12" (2" more than the 10" pattern ratio), 2" divided by 4 = 1/2" needs to be added to the hip at the side seam.

Follow the same procedure for the back yoke. Use the grid board and the ruler to line up and move the notches to the new location.

 

The grain line stays the same.  Cross out the old center back and cut line. Make any needed adjustment to the hip at the side seam as you did with the front yoke.

 Now we move on to the skirt pattern. I've taped on the 3 3/4" strip to the pattern center front.

In order to keep the skirt flare evenly divided, I'm going to split the extension more or less in half by drawing a line down the middle. Mine is divided into 2" and 1 3/4" strips.

 Cut apart at the line. I'm going to add this cut away piece to the side seam.If you have altered the hip at the yoke, be sure and add this additional amount to the side seam also. Square off the extensions at the hip and hem as before.

 Here is what my skirt front looks like. Repeat this procedure to complete the skirt back.

To sew the skirt, I recommend a different order of operations from the booklet that comes with your pattern. Sew the skirt front to the yoke front, and the skirt back to the yoke back first. Then sew the side seams and center back seam so that you'll be better able to test the fit and alter it at the side seam in one step. I also recommend a full 9" or 12" zipper, which will provide for easier access in and out of your spin skirt. 

And for another post on resizing small to large, go to https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=8080506198443103105#editor/target=post;postID=145088865645792885;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=3;src=postname

I'm excited, so sent me photos! Let me know this tutorial was useful to you.
Happy Sewing Day!

Sewing for Competition, Semi-Finalist: Karyn Heidenreich

Continuing with the IPCA PLARS garment entries, this week begins the Semi-Finalist. When sewing for competition, all other things being equal, the one thing that will set your project above all others will be adding in special details and the quality of sewing. With this group, as you will soon see, all were beyond average.  This weeks entry is a skirt made by Karyn Heidenreich using the Sew Chic Spin Skirt pattern, #LN1209. She has sewn for many years, learning the skill first in high school. She enjoys making ladies apparel and sewing for her family. The following is what she wanted to share with you about her entry:

Semi-Finalist: Karyn Heidenreich

I bought the fabric because of the colors and print pattern was something I know my daughter-in-law would like.

 There was just about 5 yds in the clearance area of the store.
The main scroll motif was not centered and side patterns did not match.
I had to do some creative piecing to get the motifs to be situated properly.
I had just enough fabric to center the motifs on each panel the way I wanted.

 I knew I wanted to make a gathered tiered skirt of some kind.
I'm glad I saw an ad for the various pattern companies in a sewing magazine.

Ideally, wanted to make the yoke with a coordinating fabric, but couldn't find any that worked.
I wanted to do the ribbon trim with two cotton twill tapes.
I couldn't find any in the colors I needed, so I had to use synthetic grosgrain and satin ribbon.
I used the satin ribbon shiny side down.
I wasn't happy with the texture of those two ribbons, but did the best I could.
I used the lines on the underskirt pattern as a guide for ribbon lengths.

 Believe it or not, I used 3 needles to make the skirt.  That ribbon was really hard on the needles.

 I made an attached petticoat modified from the underskirt pattern and modified the ruffle pattern for the tulle.

I added purchased gathered trim to one petticoat layer and a purchased flower trim to the other.

I went back and forth about entering the skirt in the contest, because of time issues.
I got the pattern the end of March and only had 2 weekends to work on it to make the deadline.

In general, I'm glad I did.
If I get judging comments back, those will be very useful for future projects.

I am going to make another skirt with the same pattern in an above the knee length for my daughter in an Alexander Henry fabric.  No deadline for it this time! I'm going to take the time to  get just the right yoke fabric and cotton twill for it.

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I'm glad she entered too! Here is the pattern she used:

Get your pattern here: http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/spin_skirt.html