Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Simplicity 8167 with Chiffon Border Print

Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Simplicity 8167
If you are about to make Simplicity 8167, first of all, I want to thank you for choosing my pattern with Simplicity! Originally named the Southern Belle, this dress is SO easy to make, that I would rate it for beginners. I understand that with some clothing, you want to put in a little extra effort to make it bloom into something special. If  this is the case, you'll have to step away from the pattern guide just a little, but remember not to over do it just for the sake of extra work. Add extra steps ONLY if it will really improve the garment. As an example, I'm going to show you the special features I've used to make this gorgeous version of the dress in chiffon.

Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
On this variation, I have omitted the godets at the hem. Review this post to give the skirt a standard hemline like you see here. My neckline is round, not square and my sleeve has a slight bell and gathered at the hem. (I personally like the original sleeve better.) This style is meant to be soft, so drapey fabrics like this border print chiffon are perfect. I used a black lining with a touch of body as the second layer and that's it. Two layers basted together is all you really need to keep this dress soft, light weight and very floaty!

Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
 The really fun thing about this fabric is that it's a border print made up of polka dots that get smaller and smaller until it looks more black that yellow. I cut the fabric so the border (selvage) was actually at the waistline, and the middle of the yardage is at the top and bottom of the dress. Be sure to use a hemmer to mark both layers of the skirt, as these layers will not hang evenly. Cut the outer layer about 1" longer than the lining.
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
 Because there is no midriff yoke at the back, I positioned the fabric so it would transition from the black a the waist, over the shoulder, and to the brightest yellow at the bustline. I started with 6 yards of 60" fabric and had to cut each piece one at the time. There was almost nothing left over, but it really came together nicely.

Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
In the interior, I used a french seam for the chiffon section of the skirt.
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
This lining is serged. The hem is turned up  and top stitched 1/4" from the fold with matching thread.
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
To hem the chiffon, I used the rolled hem settings on my serger. On the bias sections of the hem this serge creates a tiny ruffled effect.

Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167

Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
On the neck, I used a cotton bias tape stitched and pressed to the back and top stitched. The binding does not show to the front.
To keep the top stitching from becoming a design feature I used "invisible" thread in my bobbin. It comes in two colors, white or smoke, to be used with both light and dark fabrics as appropriate. It's nylon and will remind you of fishing line.
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Instead of interfacing, I used a black organza and also let that double as the third layer of lining. The interior is finished with a serge.  Do you notice the safety pins? Those are holding the flower in place. I do not sew embellishments (bows, flowers, buckles) to my garments so they can easily be removed before cleaning, and it's easy to change them up if I care to.
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
I pulled the petals from a "silk" flower, re-stitched to the ribbon and added beading to the center.
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
Sew Chic for Simplicity 8167
I get so many compliments when I wear this dress! Is this the fabric? The style? The techniques? All of these details must be able to coordinate and work together for a successful garment to emerge. Use techniques that are appropriate for the fabric, use fabric that services the design, chose a design that is a good personality for your fabric and all three will live in harmony!
See my photos here: http://www.sewchicpatterns.com/simplicity_8167.html
Buy your pattern here: http://www.simplicity.com/pattern-8167-misses-sew-chic-dress/8167.html#start=5

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As always, have a great Sewing Day!  Laura